Just returned from a trip to the Pyrenees starting on 2nd July and returning on 20th. The trek started in La Guingueta in the Vall d' Aneu, crossed Andorra and finished at Camprodon near Ripoll. Bex accompanied me from the 2nd to 11th when she had to get back to work. This year was a little different as there was very little snow so ice axe and spiders went home with Bex. The weather was mostly good with a few thunder showers, mostly at night or evening. There were lots of flowers in the meadows and along the pista sides; Bex managed to ID many but has loads of photos to identify them when she gets back. The photo above is from the Portella de Baiau (2757 m) which involved for me a scary climb up a scree slope that looked hairy from the refuge on the other side of the lake. We had spent the night in a metal hut (refuge) tied by steel cords to the mountain and although it would have been nice to camp, the wind in the night convinced us it would not have been a pleasant experience!
Andorra was much as we'd been told, quite commercial although the mountain paths were steep. We stayed in Encamp and took a day's rest in Andorra (the capital of the country). Bex left from here to have a day in Barcelona whilst I tried to find the GR11 in a building site! Anyway, onwards (I won't bore you with all the details!) I decided to do a little over 2 days walking in one and finish over the Portella de Calm Colomer (2680 m) to hopefully find a nice camping spot at altitude. This worked out well as the route wasn't too difficult to find and there were numerous camping spots around. I settled on one next to a high lake and although the temperature dropped after sunset, there was no wind or rain in the night.
The trek this time took me to the highest point of the GR11, Pic Superior de la Vaca (2824 m) on a magnificant ridge walk of about 3 km. I had taken an extra day to split the walk to Nuria staying at Queralbs and then arriving at the Santuario de Nuria in time for a buffet lunch. The next day, after a pretty sleepless night (won't tell you what I think of Spanish teenagers and their camping habits!) I left at 6 am to climb to the ridge. The sky was clear with only a few white clouds and no wind so I got an excellent views across the mountains. The above photo of the lakes shows the view from the ridge near the Puig de Tirapits into France.
Also at a point near here, I came across a large herd of Isard (called Chamois in France and I think Sarri in Catalan) on a saddle before I descended from the ridge. I must have been the first person along the ridge in the morning as they soon ran off down the collado as I approached them. They were obviously enjoying the early morning sunshine after a cold night. Soon after that, on descending into a hanging valley, I heard the frequent calls of Marmot and saw Griffin Vultures soaring over the peaks and a few Wheatear dashing between the rocks. Incidentally, earlier on the route I'd seen a couple of red squirrels crossing a pista in front of me.
My next to last day brought conditions I hadn't encountered before in the Pyrenees; dense mist. It was on the stretch between Setcases and Mollo which I had the company of Alan and Dave, Yorkshire men also doing the same section of the GR11. Although we set off in sunshine, as we approached the Collado de Lliens (1877 m) the weather changed and we had some difficulty finding the GR11 but managed with the help of compass, map and GPS. Fortunately, we reached Mollo before a major thunder storm broke but it meant we couldn't continue in those conditions. We stayed in a bunk room (refuge) and then went on the Camprodon the next day.
We later learned that several people had got in difficulty on the pass and Mountain Rescue Services had been busy until 11 at night. It is no wonder as the GR markers completely disappear on some parts of the route. Anyway, the next day was bright sunshine and my last day on the GR11. I have now completed the transverse of the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to Mediterranean; it took some time with a few diversions into France to enjoy the haute Pyrenees around Gavarnie etc. The photo shows me at the road crossing where I started the last Mediterranean section, effectively marking the end of my journey. I then left via Camprodon, Ripoll, Olot & Gerona spending a day relaxing in Olot on route. Adios to the GR11!!
