October 3, 2007. We've been away on one of the long distance walks, The Great Glen Way, GGW, in scotland going between Fort William in the west and Inverness in the east, transversing Scotland along the Glen alongside the Calidonian canal and Lochs. The walk took us 5 days of continual walking to get to Drumnadrochit covering 73 miles, which is averaging 14 miles each day including all the additional bits that made up the day.The weather wasn't bad including some sunshine and drizzle but only heavy rain at night when we were tucked away in an hostel or B&B. No problems with midges either or the route (the signing was very good and hardly needed a map but nice to see our position and the names of the lochs and nearby summits). We didn't get a clear view of the summit of Ben Nevis but took several photos at different angles as we left Fort William and disappearing from view on the second day passed Laggan.We enjoyed the walk and met others on route, either walking or at the hostels or B&B. The route is not difficult and there are a couple of long sections that can be split up. The hills on route are small and didn't present problems.The weather was changeable with sun followed by rain and sometimes some wind but I think we were lucky not to have had heavy rain whilst we were walking. If we'd left it a week later we'd have had sunshine for the 5 days!!. You do need to carry cash as the B&B only take cash or cheques. Way-marking is excellent and you'd really need to try hard to get lost !
Picture of the canal at Gairlochy
Day 1. We had travelled by coach to Fort William the previous day going via Edinburgh and Glasgow. We set off from the Calluna Hostel in light rain, but it soon cleared as we found the end of the canal. Most of the day we were on a vehicle track (good pista in Spain) alongside the canal to pass Neptune's staircase (8 locks) and Moy swing bridge to reach Gairlochy by the evening. Stayed at "Dalcomera" B&B just off the canal and it was very nice with a possibility of views of Ben Nevis at breakfast (NGR 17661 84010). In the evening we went a stroll down to the lighthouse/beacon at the south end of Loch Locky. It is also possible to camp aside the lock as they have toilets and a nice grass area.
Day 2. Some mist but it was a great walk at first near shore of Loch Locky to reach our next destination of Laggan. Later we had light rain and some difficulty as we has intended to find the Great Glen Water Park in South Laggan but it was actually in North Laggan. Anyway, we found the Scottish Youth Hostel (NGR 29403 97175) after a walk through a muddy track in the forest and then along a busy road, but did not get a great welcome and it didn't open until 5 pm. We then went back to Laggan Lock and to the floating pub/restraunt "The Eagle" and arranged to have a seafood dinner there later. This worked out fine with the help of a fisherman with cash as the B&B's don't take debit cards and neither did the barge !
Day 2 along side Loch Lochy and through the woods
Day 3. Continued along the forest track which had much improved to meet Loch Oich. The weather had improved and we saw blue sky as we wandered alongside the loch on a good track, sometimes an old railway track and often reaching the shore of the loch. I took a photo of a abandoned cottage along the track that had a great view of the loch and the island in the centre. After crossing the railway bridge and Cullochy lock, we headed along the north side of the canal to Kytra lock and on to Fort Augustus. The later track was a vehicle track and well maintained but the walk did seem endless with the same scenery for several miles. However, we enjoyed the brambles along side the canal and the track and seeing the well kept locks with their cottages. It was a relief to be in Fort Augustus and have a meal at the "Bothy" near the centre. Our accomodation "Thistle Pubh" was on the GGW as we walked out of town, very convenient (NGR 37674 09865) and pleasant. We shared breakfast with an American lad who started at the same time as ourselves and we'd seen several times but not had a chance to chat; he was enjoying the experience and seemed to like the changeable weather.Mushrooms seen in the forest but not eaten !
Day 4. This was to be a short day to Invermoriston along a forest track. The track at the end seemed long and pointless as a short cut through the woodland would have taken us to our destination without the long loop around the valley. Even a short-cut before the path veared south west was closed, and we had to keep to the cycle path. Invermoriston itself was very pleasant with a spot of sunshine for our picnic lunch on the village green aside the shetland cattle. Spoke to our fellow walkers, the young american and the french couple who had been camping. The B&B was pleasant (NH 42192 16739) at Mr and Mrs Gregg's. We shared breakfast with a couple of German girls also hiking and having seen on previous days. They intended to get a bus for part of the next day as their packs were heavy (18 kg). We had a great meal at the hotel in town. There is also an excellent little shop that sells sandwiches, pizzas, tea and coffee and other supplies but there is no ATM machine.
Day 5. The start from Invermoriston was different as we climbed up above Loch Ness and got good views to the south. We did a slight detour to get a view from a stone seat (NH 42913 16961) at 204 m, of Loch Ness towards Fort Augustus. Further along we reached the highest point so far at 292 m (NH 47126 21243). After that we were on a path (not a track) that was a pleasant change with lots of places suitable to camp with water. We eventually came out near Balbeg and had lunch in the sunshine looking through the silver birch to the loch but had to move on as a shower descended. After that, the GGW followed a minor road, sometimes on the road and others on a path alongside the road. I'm sure this could be avoided as most walkers, including ourselves, detest walking on tarmac especially with such grand country all around. We found the Back Packers in Drumnadrochit (NH 51291 29225) and as it was raining, stayed in for a while before making some pasta meal and walking to see Urquhart castle on the side of the loch. This was about 1.5 miles from the hostel and by 7.30 pm was all lit up. We were the only visitors so nice to see but getting cool. The next morning, Helen fell from her top bunk bed in the hostel and we had to abandon the rest of the walk; after a rest she was mobile again and saw a doctor and then left to get the bus to Inverness and then to Tain. She's much better now but sore with the bruising so it will take a week nor so to get back to normal. Hopefully we'll finish the last 18 miles in the future.
