Some Cornish pirates in Porthtowan!
I've just returned from another interesting walk along the South West Coastal path continuing from where I left off in April (Perranporth) in North Cornwall and completing the North Cornish coastal part to finish past Land's End at Penzance. I had great weather for this time of year (surprise, surprise!!)with little wind, plenty of sunshine and the only rain I experienced was some heavy showers when I was snug and dry in my tent. The total distance was about 75 miles and included some of the wildest parts of the entire route, especially after St Ives, and long walking days. The first day I reached St Ives after a lengthy stretch over sand dunes and then found the campsite I'd planned to stay was closed, but luckily there were several bed and breakfast places nearby. One problem with this time of year is that sunset is around seven o'clock and early starts are difficult as sunrise is at seven in the morning.
Gurnard's Head with the Ebal Rocks offshore
The next day was a tough route with boggy and rocky ground for a good part of the way but the scenery was amazing, particularly with the sunshine and clear views. I reached a campsite (at Botallack) just after the Pendeen Tin Mines which was very close to the route with time to get my tent up and make dinner before nightfall. The following day was bright with a little wind and a varied route at different levels, some on the cliff tops and sometime nearer the shoreline, at one point crossing boulders on the shore. Along this section there was little chance of campsites without going inland quite a way, and as I wanted to reach Penzance early the next day, I forged on until near dusk. I then found a nice spot high on the cliffs with views in both directions and the lights of Penzance in the distance. The next morning I arose early to catch sunrise, have my porridge and then a relatively gentle stroll to the road at Mousehole and onto Penzance. Maybe I should have mentioned Land's End but I'd been there before and again found it less than inspiring with all the visitors attactions that didn't add anything to the special coastline here. One surprise for me was the long sandy beach (Sennen Cove) as I approached from the north and the lack of waymarkers around the area. However, there was a sign post to John o'Groats!!
On reaching Penzance I had a large breakfast (the cafe also had an extra large, what a temptation, but I'd already had one breakfast)! Luckily, the train to Truro was waiting for me and then a bus back to Perranporth, again this would have been a fast connection if I wasn't adjusting my boot laces when the bus flew past. On arriving in Perranporth there was a Cornish Festival with a parade which looked very sombre. Anyway, after a snack, I made my way along the coast to the "Bluehills" campsite and a beer sitting in the sun. However, the weather was changing as the sunset the temperatures dropped to near freezing at night. Further progress along the coastal path will have to wait until next year and hopefully the Penzance to Falmouth stretch which includes the Lizard which is supposed to be a special coastline; aren't we spoilt for specials in Cornwall.
View from my "freedom camping" spot at dusk and sunrise; can you spot the light house?
