Cycling group from Marjal Camping at the square in Rafal, sunny ride after rain in the night.
Helen's on the left next to her bike with her back towards the camera. You can't see me because I'm behind the camera!

We had about 30 in our cycling group today and had a great ride from the campsite to Rafal and back. It had rained the previous day and overnight but the sun was out this morning. The terrain is very flat and not as interesting as "our" Purbecks. We also tried the local "Fondo Nature Reserve" the other day but we got bogged down in mud so came back to clean our bikes up. We'll try that another day when the area has dried. It does look interesting with several hides to watch the wildlife, mainly birds and isn't very far away, about 10 minutes by cycle. Otherwise we're making the most of the gym, swimming pool and sauna. The language classes are going well but I think we may be learning Valencian which is similar to Catalan, I may be wrong though! Adios for now.

 Hi, Now away for a couple of months in Alicante/Murcia in southern Spain. We took the Dover to Calais ferry and drove (a long way, stopping at Aires on route!) to get to the border near Angeles-sur-Mer where we camped-up for the night in the harbour. We had originally intended to then go to Valencia and spend a couple of days there but on route I realised that the campsite might be closed as we'd stayed there last year but at a later date in January. Anyway, this turned out to be the case but luckily we just diverted off route to Peniscola on the coast. This was a busy campsite with lots of residents but a very pleasant stay with two sunny days and a chance to see the old town and the restoration work they have been doing (since 2008) on the sand dunes (see photo above). We then drove straight down to Mahjal camping which is south of Alicante city near Crevillent and the Parque Natural El Fondo or Hondo depending on the map.

This is a shot of Helen in the afternoon sun after we joined a group cycleride to Callosa in the morning. The campsite is brand new (opened in December last year) and has very modern facilities, gym, indoor pool and we're doing free Spanish lessons; maybe one day I will be able to speak something resembling Spanish. It gets dark by 6 and light by about 8.30 with temperatures rising in the daytime to near 20 C at the moment. However, the temperatures drop suddendly as the sun drops and in the morning it is 6 - 8 C and feels cold. However, once the sun gets above the horizon, the temperatures quickly rise unless there is cloud cover and then it stops at about 14-16 C. There looks to be lots to explore locally on our bikes, small villages and the Nature reserve and the coast is ony about 15 km away. There is a train line a few kilometres away that goes to Murcia and Alicante and also buses that can be found to get around here and to the coast. We've joined the gym, indoor pool and sauna and that went well so far. In case anyone wants to contact us, we have email and a phone signal. We've used Skype alread to contact Helen's Mum and Dad and that works fine but we only got one picture.

We’ve been away doing the Devon Coast to Coast cycle ride on our 41st anniversary and also our first long distance trip on bikes. We travelled over to Totnes on Tuesday 6th September with our camper and stayed at the Caravan Club site in Totnes which is situated next to the river Dart and close to the town centre. This gave us a chance to see Bex , Tony and also Ems as well as she’s volunteering nearby at Sharpham Outdoors.
On Wednesday we took our bikes by train from Totnes to Exeter changing to get the train to Barnstaple in north Devon. This was the first time we’d travelled with our bikes on trains but it went very smoothly as we’d pre-booked them for both journeys. There is no train line between Barnstaple and Ilfracombe (there was a line but that fell under the Beeching Axe in the 1960s I guess) so our plan was to cycle the 20 miles from Barnstaple to Ilfracombe using the upland route of the Cycle route 27, and on Thursday start the journey from Ilfracombe but this time taking the coastal variant to Braunton (this is also the most hilly of the two routes) and then onto Barnstaple to reach Bideford for the night. The weather was predicted to be “lively” with rain and wind but in the event we did get a few showers but nothing to warrant overtrousers. We stopped in Barnstaple for a drink and Braunton for lunch before climbing onto the Downs to find the old railway track near Lee bridge and the descent into Ilfracombe which incidentally goes through a grave yard!. Here we stayed at the Merlin Hotel which was pleasant enough but in need of renovation but at least our bikes were securely locked away. Again, we got caught in another shower in the evening and we decided that in future we’d carry an umbrella.
We left Ilfracombe in the drizzle to climb on the old railtrack up to Lee Bridge and shortly after this, divert on roads to the coast via Morthoe. Unfortunately, the visibility was poor so we missed the view along the coast at Morthoe; the first photo shows Helen descending the hill to Woolacombe (yes, you’ve guessed, another coffee stop!). The #27 stays above the long sandy beach mainly through a long car park perched above the beach and eventually becoming a gravel track to Putsborough. Here we faced a road climb to Georgeham and a few 4WDs squeezing us against the tall hedges, to regain our route of the previous day into Braunton and joining the Tarka Trail to Barnstaple for lunch. Route #27 joins the Tarka Cycle trail from Braunton to Petrockstowe and is pretty level and mostly tarmac or at least a good surface for cycling and giving great views of the Taw and Torridge estuaries. After lunch we headed for Bideford and with better weather is was plain sailing stopping at Fremington Quay besides the Taw, for a tea and cake (see photo).
In Bideford we stayed at a B&B, “The Corner House” which is centrally situated and use to cyclists travelling though.

The following day we set off after nine along the Traka Trail, past the old Bideford train station and passing several seats with wooden figures or tiled seats (one example is shown) and stopped (yes you’ve guessed) for a coffee at Yarde Orchard. Here they have yurts, camping and dorms for travellers or visitors but for us it was a welcome break and a chance to drink their home-made apple juice. Before Petrockstowe, route #27 and Tarka trail part company as we continued on minor roads to Sheepwash (see photo of village green) and onto Hatherleigh, our lunch stop. The route was now quite hilly with a continuous series of ups and downs with a longer climb to Abbeyford Woods before free-wheeling into Okehampton and a tea stop at the museum. We had an evening meal at “The White Hart” (which incidentally means a female white deer) and probably the most pleasant B&B of the trip. Watching the weather forecast at night wasn’t too inspiring as a hurricane was heading to the UK with the met office issuing a yellow alert. Looking at the route there seemed to be a little uncertainty about the western route through Tavistock. We didn’t fancy pushing our bikes up muddy hills in the rain to reach Yelverton but we decided to leave the decisions on the route to see how the weather developed and if they had any information on the state of the cycle path at the information office in Tavistock.

After breakfast we were faced with a steep climb out of Okehampton with no opportunity to warm our rested muscles! However, it was a relatively short climb to the well-surfaced “Granite Trail” to follow the valley to Lydford. Again we were on an old rail track that gradually gained altitude before we were diverted downhill to Bridestowe. Later we were told that this was unnecessary and we could have continued on but all the signs and guide book said otherwise. We’d been to Lydford before so went to the tea rooms at the NT entrance and had a break before deciding that we had made good progress and would be in Tavistock by lunch time. In view of the bad weather predictions we decided there and then to bypass Tavistock on the eastern route of #27 to reach Drake’s Way into Plymouth (also part of the Coast to Coast route). The route continued with a series of sharp ups and downs through North Brentor (we didn’t use the summer route as the ground was soggy), Mary Tavy and Peter Tavy. On the way to Peter Tavy, the route went off-road on a narrow muddy track that wasn’t good going for loaded bikes. Anyway, at Peter Tavy we read a large yellow notice warning cyclists that the Tavistock route, the western option of the route #27, was closed near Grenofen Bridge and not open until the Spring of 2012. This didn’t affect us as we’d already decided on the eastern route through Walkhampton which wasn’t affected by the on-going work. After Meavy we had another off-road experience on which cyclists were warned to dismount on the steep rocky path that led down to a cycle path following the Ply Valley (mostly on tarmac but off-road). This section to Plymouth was very pleasant, free-wheeling most of the way and now meeting Sunday trippers and dog walkers. The weather had been variable with some drizzle but as we approached Plymouth it seemed to improve with a glimpse of the sun now and again. I won’t describe our route to the railway station; we clung to #27 as long as we could but eventually lost it in the traffic and chaos of road works etc. The railway station isn’t well marked and neither are the cycle paths that seem to disappear at the slightest hint of a junction or roundabout.
We returned to Totnes on Saturday night having completed the route in three days and in spite of predictions to the contrary, we didn’t get wet merely damp! The “accelerated end” meant that we had Sunday for Ems to show us around the Dartington Estate, especially the gardens and trees and enjoy a sunny stroll aside the river before returning home on Sunday evening.

Just returned from a trip to the Pyrenees starting on 2nd July and returning on 20th. The trek started in La Guingueta in the Vall d' Aneu, crossed Andorra and finished at Camprodon near Ripoll. Bex accompanied me from the 2nd to 11th when she had to get back to work. This year was a little different as there was very little snow so ice axe and spiders went home with Bex. The weather was mostly good with a few thunder showers, mostly at night or evening. There were lots of flowers in the meadows and along the pista sides; Bex managed to ID many but has loads of photos to identify them when she gets back. The photo above is from the Portella de Baiau (2757 m) which involved for me a scary climb up a scree slope that looked hairy from the refuge on the other side of the lake. We had spent the night in a metal hut (refuge) tied by steel cords to the mountain and although it would have been nice to camp, the wind in the night convinced us it would not have been a pleasant experience!

Andorra was much as we'd been told, quite commercial although the mountain paths were steep. We stayed in Encamp and took a day's rest in Andorra (the capital of the country). Bex left from here to have a day in Barcelona whilst I tried to find the GR11 in a building site! Anyway, onwards (I won't bore you with all the details!) I decided to do a little over 2 days walking in one and finish over the Portella de Calm Colomer (2680 m) to hopefully find a nice camping spot at altitude. This worked out well as the route wasn't too difficult to find and there were numerous camping spots around. I settled on one next to a high lake and although the temperature dropped after sunset, there was no wind or rain in the night.

The trek this time took me to the highest point of the GR11, Pic Superior de la Vaca (2824 m) on a magnificant ridge walk of about 3 km. I had taken an extra day to split the walk to Nuria staying at Queralbs and then arriving at the Santuario de Nuria in time for a buffet lunch. The next day, after a pretty sleepless night (won't tell you what I think of Spanish teenagers and their camping habits!) I left at 6 am to climb to the ridge. The sky was clear with only a few white clouds and no wind so I got an excellent views across the mountains. The above photo of the lakes shows the view from the ridge near the Puig de Tirapits into France.

Also at a point near here, I came across a large herd of Isard (called Chamois in France and I think Sarri in Catalan) on a saddle before I descended from the ridge. I must have been the first person along the ridge in the morning as they soon ran off down the collado as I approached them. They were obviously enjoying the early morning sunshine after a cold night. Soon after that, on descending into a hanging valley, I heard the frequent calls of Marmot and saw Griffin Vultures soaring over the peaks and a few Wheatear dashing between the rocks. Incidentally, earlier on the route I'd seen a couple of red squirrels crossing a pista in front of me.

My next to last day brought conditions I hadn't encountered before in the Pyrenees; dense mist. It was on the stretch between Setcases and Mollo which I had the company of Alan and Dave, Yorkshire men also doing the same section of the GR11. Although we set off in sunshine, as we approached the Collado de Lliens (1877 m) the weather changed and we had some difficulty finding the GR11 but managed with the help of compass, map and GPS. Fortunately, we reached Mollo before a major thunder storm broke but it meant we couldn't continue in those conditions. We stayed in a bunk room (refuge) and then went on the Camprodon the next day.

We later learned that several people had got in difficulty on the pass and Mountain Rescue Services had been busy until 11 at night. It is no wonder as the GR markers completely disappear on some parts of the route. Anyway, the next day was bright sunshine and my last day on the GR11. I have now completed the transverse of the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to Mediterranean; it took some time with a few diversions into France to enjoy the haute Pyrenees around Gavarnie etc. The photo shows me at the road crossing where I started the last Mediterranean section, effectively marking the end of my journey. I then left via Camprodon, Ripoll, Olot & Gerona spending a day relaxing in Olot on route. Adios to the GR11!!

Here are some photos from our snorkelling at Maenporth during the last weekend taken by Bex..wow lots of colour underwater !!

I have just returned from a further walk along the South West Coastal path starting in Penzance and finishing in Plymouth, so completing the Cornish part of the route. Overall the weather was variable with some hot sunny days but a few days when rain dominated the daytime but invariably raining at night
I got the Heritage Coast bus to Exeter and then on to Totnes to stay at Bex and Tony. I then took the train down to Penzance and was on route by 11 o’clock to Marazan past St Michael’s Mount to Cudden Point and on to Porthleven to a National Trust campsite not far from the coast. The following day the path crossed Loe Bar onto “The Lizard” proper, Gunwalloe Cove and a coffee stop at Poldhu Cove and then onto Mullian Cove. There were lots of different flowers to photograph along the wayside but not enough time to identify them all, maybe on another visit when I have time to wander. By the end of the day, darker clouds were on the horizon and it wasn’t long before rain started as I reached the village of Lizard and “Henry’s Camp”.

This colourful campsite reminded me of Coffee Bay in South Africa and was a welcome stop with a pub just up the road.
The next day was a long walk to Helford River to meet up with the family to celebrate Ems birthday on Monday. I had to reach the ferry by 5.30 pm to get the last ferry crossing. The first section was about 3 ½ miles to the village of Cadgwith and then an inland route past the quarries after Lowland Point. This part was mainly through rain but this eventually cleared near Godrevy Cove, which is a quite isolated beach just around the corner from the old quarries. The rest of the trek to Helford wasn’t too exciting as I’d decided that the tide was too high to allow me a short cut across a river and that meant a tedious walk along roads (with some shortcuts over fields). After a coffee at Helford Landing, I strolled along to Durgan beach to meet Bex and Tony for a lift to Pennance Farm Camping just south of Falmouth.

We had a welcome break in the weather for Saturday and a motor boat trip to explore the river and get lunch in Helford near the quay. Later we went to Maenporth beach to snorkel in the calm waters of the bay. This was the first time I had really been able to see underwater and enjoy the clear view amongst the northern rocky shoreline. The sea at this time was very calm so we all enjoyed the experience as we had the full wet suit gear and snorkels that seemed to work well.


The weather then turned, so after food and games, we had to retire at ten o’clock in the rain and awake in the rain. In the morning we parted, me to continue on route to Falmouth and the rest of the family to go home, to hopefully escape the bad weather. The weather was terrible with storm winds and persistent rain and although Falmouth harbour looked calm, they had cancelled the Ferries to St Mawes as the company told me that the sea was too rough to attempt the crossing. The forecast was better for Monday so my plan was to find a roof for the night and try the first ferry at half-past eight in the morning. I’d soon found the “Jacobs Ladder” Hostel, a few minutes’ walk from the quay to get food and dry my now soaking kit. Why is it that all waterproof gear (no matter what you pay!) doesn’t work when exposed to persistent rain?
The ferries were running the next morning so I set off in light drizzle to St Mawes and then another ferry to St Anthony to meet the coastal track at Bohortha. The route to Porthholland was pleasant as the day had improved so I continued on to Treveasgue Camping just off the route. The next day was to Par Sands to reach Fowey and another short ferry. The weather, although very humid, did hold but I did manage to get confused in Par Sands but soon found the route over the cliffs to eventually descend into Fowey and the foot-ferry to Polruan, two pubs and a campsite up the hill!


The next day I awoke to dense mist so I descended back into Polruan to pick up the coastal path. This in fact turned out to be the toughest day of this stretch of the walk with what felt like continuous ups and downs for 6 ½ miles, mostly in the rain. I only met one other person, like me loaded with gear; he had walked from Plymouth and aimed to finish at Land’s End. By the time I’d reached the picturesque harbour of Mevagissey, the sun was shining as I enjoyed a full breakfast! Then it was onwards to Porthpean and lunch in the sun on the beach with the holidaymakers but spoilt a little by a seagull stealing my chocolate bar! The route then seems to get lost on a longish road walk around Duporth. By the time I reached Looe, the tide was out so I had a tour of the town to get around the harbour rather than a ferry crossing. The next stop was Seaton for a large apple crumble on the beach and a short walk along the road to a campsite at Downderry.

The last day’s walk to Plymouth looked easier on the map but as I found there were still a few hills to climb. The rain cleared early and I was soon in the village of Portwinkle and then straight through to a “MoD Danger Area” and more rain. At least the diversion from the Range is mostly on a footpath at the side of the road or sometimes with a hedge between. The path follows the minor road with some diversions up and down the cliff but eventually curling around to Queener Point (in the rain) to Cawsand and then Kingsand. Here I had a pub lunch before moving on to Cremyll and the ferry to Plymouth to meet Bex. The route goes through a deer park and Edgecumbe Country Park to reach Cremyll and the sign welcoming folks to Cornwall; but for me a goodbye to the coastal Cornwall and back into Devon.
From here I went back to Totnes and then home the next day. I have only a last section from Plymouth to Exeter to walk and then I’ve completed the entire South West Path; maybe I’ll do this in the autumn if I survive the Pyrenees in a couple of weeks!

We are now in Gretna Green on the road to Tain to visit Helen’s Mum & Dad for a week. The journey home, stopping in Santander, was good although we got less sleep on the ferry than on the outward crossing. The highway from Salamanca was excellent, mainly on dual carriageway passing through farmland and the Picos mountains. We found a pleasant campsite close to Santander called “Camping Virgen del Mar” that was close to a hermitage of the same name on a small island just off the coast accessible by a footbridge. There was only three units on the campsite which was well situated, and with lots of sunshine we managed to cycle to the city using backroads and then alongside the sandy beaches on a cycleway to the port and city for lunch.
All is well at home with daffodils in bloom and the garden looking very spring-like; I’ve even had to mow the lawn. We did loose some plants in the greenhouse because of the cold weather whilst we were away but fushias and many geraniums survived, even the “Floral Cascade” cuttings I took just before leaving.
We had 10 players for the U3A Mah Jong session on Monday afternoon which proved pretty testing because of the speed which we play and I managed to forget some of the special hands that Helen and I had been practising. Now we have some more “hands” to remember, including one that looks impossible called “misery”…I think it might be a miserable business trying to collect it and I won’t be trying that one for a while!!
The photos are of the Santander beaches, the hermitage at Virgen del Mar and some statues in Santander alongside the quay and cycle path.

Hola, We’ve been on the move again, first to Conil de la Frontera near the coast staying at Camping Roche (mostly in the rain and wind) and got one good day cycling north to Sancti Petri in sight of Cadiz. The area was not busy, has great long beaches and lots of apartments that we’re sure are busy in the summer but pretty dead at the moment. Left with a camper tour of Cadiz in the rain and then onto Seville (a busy campsite: Vilsom Camping). The drive up from the coast was like travelling through Norfolk, pretty flat and lots of farming, mostly arable, going on. We got the bus into the lively city on Saturday and saw lots of things, probably more than we could take in on one day, but included the Alcazar (photo in gardens), Cathedral, Plaza de Espana (photo), Parks and a stroll alongside the main river, Guadalquivir. Initially wet, the day brightened up and we only got rain on the walk back to the campsite from the bus drop. Certainly a city to revisit as there are many great buildings, sights to see and good places to eat and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere. There were many young people demonstrating, singing their way through the streets in a carnival atmosphere but we couldn’t see what it was all about !! The low point for Helen was a Spanish tea which resembled diluted milk.
The we moved on through more rain to Caceres to a nice campsite set on a hill but a little out of town. There is not much in the immediate neighborhood, a football stadium and industrial estate, but the city is a short bus ride away. After another days rain and Mah Jong practise, we had a sunny day in the old city (see photos, including the White Storks on the towers). This is a World Heritage Site and impressive with buildings in the walled part of the city covering the Roman, Goths, Moors and colonial times, up to the present day. We particularly liked the view from the Cathedral belfry(St Maria)as the old quarters stand above the surrounding lands. This is where I got the close-up shot of the Storks. The museums we visited were all described in Spanish but we could make out bits anyway.
So this will be our last post before returning home via Santander. We will stop over in Salamanca and have a day there to explore some more. Adios

Can you spot the Griffin Vulture on its rock ledge nest. I missed the other adult flying in and out as I'd just put the camera away!

Now moved west and up from the southern coast to Los Alcornocales Natural Park at a campsite near Alcala Los Gazules. The park is green !! and known for its cork oak forests and mountains. Previously we’d stayed on the coast and then up through the mountains to Humilladero where we stayed a couple of days and visited a saline lake, “Laguna de Fuente de Piedre” and saw Flamingos and Black-Winged Stilts a pretty close quarters. On route through Alcornocales we passed through the busy village, Ubrique, (felt like a town) with narrow streets and apparently know for its resistance to the Nationalists during the civil war, and along 42 km of winding road with few stopping places as most of it was Z-bends. However, we found a pleasant place for “Bebidas and Comidas” at the Puerto de Galis with a great log fire and rustic atmosphere to enjoy a lunch break and wait for the rain to slacken. We resisted the “Wild Boer” on the menu this time (still haven’t seen a wild boer). We can’t complain about the rain as this is only the second day we’ve had since we left England and tomorrow is predicted cloudy. The terrain is far greener than we had imagined and we’ve seen flowing rivers for a change from the dry river beds along the eastern side. There are many flowers out and new leaves on some of the trees but it is difficult to recognise many of them apart from the obvious Rosemary and Lavender bushes and extensive Cork Oaks around here. Today (Saturday) we went on a walk to a lookout point at the head of a valley next to the campsite: “Sendero Ruta de Los Molinos”, the route of the millers, a site of an ancient Mill in the valley. We saw lots of Griffin Vultures on route and a place on the cliffs where they were nesting. Helen lost her glasses on route, so we returned to see if we could find them only to return and see them smashed by a car on the road 20 metres from our camp. The weather is fine but we've decided to move to the coast south of Cadiz to see what that area is like before going up to Seville. Adios for now...

Hola, about to leave Cabo de Gata having had a great time in the sunshine exploring the park and local villages. We have been lucky with weather which has resembled British summer in the daytime although it gets dark at 7 pm and cools down quickly. Once beyond the “plastic” covered fields, the area has its own attraction with long - long empty beaches, small white pueblos such as Cabo de Gata itself, lagoons with a variety of birdlife including Flamingos, Advocets, White faced ducks and Black-winged Grebes, Shovelers and more. We have cycled many of the local pistas and the road from the campsite along the coast towards San Jose. This goes through the more pristine area of the park over two passes to reach a final saddle (about 200 m) overlooking beaches and the coast near San Jose. At the col, the road transforms from “pot-holed tarmac” to a “stony pista” and looks to be all down hill. The photos show the Flamingos on the lagoon at Salinas during their courtship display, and the view from the last saddle back southwards to the lighthouse at the cape. The folks at the campsite are friendly; our immediate neighbour, Anne, as been here since October and is a font of information on the locality. The site is not as packed as the ones we’ve been in and most people seemed to have spread over two pitches!! Anyway, we’ve only 3 weeks left so need to move on if we’re to see more of southern Spain..Adios.

Moved southwards and beach for a windy day at Isla Plana near Puerto de Mazarron and cycled east to La Azohia. The campsite (Camping Los Madriles) is set on terraces about 200 m from a beach accessed by a pista over the road. We visited the more developed Puerto de Mazarron on a perfect day in shorts and “T” shirt going though the Puerto to Bolnuevo about 10 miles to the west, also with a beach and some sculptured sandstone rocks. The bikes have been going well and the small hills along the coastal road have not been a problem. Helen’s 18 V bike battery is lasting well having helped up the steep hills in the Sierra Espuna, the cycle to La Azohia, and today to Bolnuevo and still with 3/5 charge remaining. Here we are in a fairly large site with mainly German and Dutch campers with a sprinkling of British and French thrown in. It has a heated swimming pool, boules area, tennis court and table tennis room and activities we now associate with the “Overwinterers” (long stay residents). The site is in the ACSI scheme so costs us just 15 euro a night but is unusual in that they charge for electric over 4 KW usage (which isn’t much when you have a fridge and freezer on board). On most sites that we’ve been to so far, the electric is inclusive anyway.
Now in the desert near Almeria at Cabo de Gata. Haven’t explored here yet but have included a photo from yesterday of Helen cooling off during a cycle ride up a pista to a coastal lookout near La Azohia and also a view from the top towards Mazarron and the coast. We found a café in the village, Campilla de Adentro near Castillitos for a late lunch and rest before the cycle up to another pass to get back to La Azohia.

Rainy day today! We spent Valantines day cycling up into the Sierras and a very enjoyable lunch, “Menu del Dia” at the La Perdiz after a cycle over the pass to Fuente del Hilo (much puffing!) to find it closed. After that we explored the park a little to find the dinosaurs footprints under a suspension bridge, we returned via Casa Leiva and a long uphill route to the saddle followed by a long freewheel down back to El Berro. We all enjoyed the scenery and sunshine and almost no traffic on the roads. We caught glimpses of squirrels and two wild goats in the park but few birds although we heard quite a few in the pines. Sue and Brian have left us to return east to the coast whilst we continue to the south coast, hopefully leaving the rain behind us. Here's Helen braving the last hill of the day and getting a clear view from just below the saddle. I wasn't far behind!!

Now in El Berro in the Sierra Espuna in the Murcia region having good weather inspite of being 650 m up in the Sierras. It is a pleasant campsite with good views and not as busy as the coastal sites that we’ve been. The village is pleasant with two bakers, a small supermarket and bars and there are lots of walks in the vicinity. We’ve done three walks locally, one with Brian into the mountains to La Perdiz and the ridge up to Morron Chico (1444 m) and route along Barranco de Leyva, and two others with us all going through almond groves onto a ridge with views to the north and another longer walk to some sandstone cliffs (Golden Eagles nest in this area) which was beautiful but did involve a long road walk back to the campsite. We have not seen much wildlife inspite of the park making something of the wildboer and squirrel populations as attractions. We have seen lots of signs of the boer rutting in the forest and no wild goats either (not to mention Golden Eagles). A few small birds such as Siskin are around but not many so maybe the lack of water in the region limits the numbers. There are no rivers only dry river beds and we understand the water table has dropped so that rivers that did flow have now vanished. The weather prediction is still good for the next few days so we’ll probably stop on a while and enjoy it whilst we can, even thinking of getting the bikes out to see how we fair on the hills hereabout.

We have caught the sun at last. At least the temperatures are warm during the day going upto 17 C but drop to near zero at night. We’re at Guardamar del Segura near the coast next to the Rio Segura and just 15 minutes walk from the beach and dunes. The town is also a short cycle away alongside the canal so we’ve been exploring. Helen’s been swimming and some “keep fit” whilst we’ve both been cycling along the many pistas in the area. Also the beach makes a nice running strip with a walk through the dunes on the way back. We did a hours Spanish class on the site and have internet access from the café. Brian and Sue are also here (just opposite us) so we’ve had some great evenings for dinner and DVDs or “Rummy”, so it is good to have company. It still gets dark about half-past six and the temperatures plummet after five but that’s fine as its T-shirts and shorts after eleven once the sun is higher. The campsite is full and we got the last two places. There are many Dutch, English and German people with many of them “overwintering” with massive units I wonder how they get them onto their plots. We’re not sure how long we’ll stay here, no doubt the weather will decide that for us but at the moment we’re reluctant to move from this spot.

Now in Spain having had a smooth crossing on the ferry to Santander. We drove down the Ebro valley to Zaragosa via a stop at Haro in the Rioja region. Zaragosa was very cold at just above zero with a bitter wind but we enjoyed a trip to the city and we expect, on a nice day, you could spend some time there. The Rio Ebro flows though the city and had time to visit the Aliferia Palace of Moor’s origin. From there we crossed the arid plains south-easterly to the Valencia to find a pleasant campsite Camping Col Vert, on the coast with a good cycle track to the city and the nearby Natural Park l’Albufera , the largest freshwater lake in Spain (according to the Rough Guide anyway). Here we met Brain and Sue and did some cycling through the park to Sollana via El Palmer (look out point for birds, but not a lot apart from egrets and heron), and also took a bus trip into the city and a City Tour with the weather improving. The next day we cycled to a beach on the north side of the harbour on good cycle ways and found the beach that we visited on our backpacking trip a few years ago when we spent the afternoon watching the kites dancing to classical music in a kite festival. This beach was deserted with only a few tourist wandering around the cafes etc.
We’re now in Benidorm at Camping Raco, not far from the centre. Say what you want about Benidorm, in the winter it seems to have the sun, 17 C yesterday. The campsites are almost full and lots of British around. The cafes are catering with British food so home from home really. We’ll be moving south soon but the weather is set to break again so who knows where we’ll go.

Some Cornish pirates in Porthtowan!

I've just returned from another interesting walk along the South West Coastal path continuing from where I left off in April (Perranporth) in North Cornwall and completing the North Cornish coastal part to finish past Land's End at Penzance. I had great weather for this time of year (surprise, surprise!!)with little wind, plenty of sunshine and the only rain I experienced was some heavy showers when I was snug and dry in my tent. The total distance was about 75 miles and included some of the wildest parts of the entire route, especially after St Ives, and long walking days. The first day I reached St Ives after a lengthy stretch over sand dunes and then found the campsite I'd planned to stay was closed, but luckily there were several bed and breakfast places nearby. One problem with this time of year is that sunset is around seven o'clock and early starts are difficult as sunrise is at seven in the morning.

Gurnard's Head with the Ebal Rocks offshore
The next day was a tough route with boggy and rocky ground for a good part of the way but the scenery was amazing, particularly with the sunshine and clear views. I reached a campsite (at Botallack) just after the Pendeen Tin Mines which was very close to the route with time to get my tent up and make dinner before nightfall. The following day was bright with a little wind and a varied route at different levels, some on the cliff tops and sometime nearer the shoreline, at one point crossing boulders on the shore. Along this section there was little chance of campsites without going inland quite a way, and as I wanted to reach Penzance early the next day, I forged on until near dusk. I then found a nice spot high on the cliffs with views in both directions and the lights of Penzance in the distance. The next morning I arose early to catch sunrise, have my porridge and then a relatively gentle stroll to the road at Mousehole and onto Penzance. Maybe I should have mentioned Land's End but I'd been there before and again found it less than inspiring with all the visitors attactions that didn't add anything to the special coastline here. One surprise for me was the long sandy beach (Sennen Cove) as I approached from the north and the lack of waymarkers around the area. However, there was a sign post to John o'Groats!!
On reaching Penzance I had a large breakfast (the cafe also had an extra large, what a temptation, but I'd already had one breakfast)! Luckily, the train to Truro was waiting for me and then a bus back to Perranporth, again this would have been a fast connection if I wasn't adjusting my boot laces when the bus flew past. On arriving in Perranporth there was a Cornish Festival with a parade which looked very sombre. Anyway, after a snack, I made my way along the coast to the "Bluehills" campsite and a beer sitting in the sun. However, the weather was changing as the sunset the temperatures dropped to near freezing at night. Further progress along the coastal path will have to wait until next year and hopefully the Penzance to Falmouth stretch which includes the Lizard which is supposed to be a special coastline; aren't we spoilt for specials in Cornwall.



View from my "freedom camping" spot at dusk and sunrise; can you spot the light house?

Beach near Pirnmill looking north
We've just returned from a trip to Scotland which included a week on the Isle of Arran and a few days on the Isle of Mull. On route we visted Emily in Stoke and borrowed her canoe to try-out during the holiday. Our first attempt on Rudyard lake went well, especially with the sunshining and little wind. After the trials we decided that it was more manageable if we paddled, one on each side. However, our seats and backrest kept deflating, especially the one at the rear so that Helen was almost on her back and trying to paddle. When we changed seats, I found it much the same but enjoyed the trip to the far end of the lake (even had a landing there!!). Managed to see Em's lab at the University which brought back memories for me anyway, and a meal at the local pub at Keele. Then drove north stopping on route at a Caravan Club CL site. We'd decided to use them this trip as they seem to be in nice locations without all the hassle we seem to get with the larger Club sites. They often have electric hook-ups but we can get-by for several days without electric anyway,
We got the ferry to Arran on Sunday 5th September and stayed in Auchrannie House hotel near Brodick (where the ferry lands), had a swim and sauna and great meal at night in the hotel. The resort next door is also open to the public so convenient for activities on a rainy day and for Helen whilst I climbed Goat Fell. After our night of luxury, we were back in our luxury camper exploring the island going up the east side to Lochranza to find an exposed campsite near the harbour but with great views of the mountains and deer grazing nearby. The site was just past the Distillery that I'd visited with Mum in 1997 and I recall looking out of the window on our tour of the distillery to see a deer approaching down the hillside. The west side of the island is stunning as the road (probably similar to our "B" roads in England) snakes it's way down the shoreline on a raised beach. I'd seen this type of beach on a walk to "The Cock of Arran" the previous evening where a footpath on the raised beach follows the coastline to the northern most tip of the island. We stopped just before Pirnmill to gather blackberries growing along the shoreline and watch the birds, some Mergansers nearby. This was proving a great time to stock up with blackberries, especially on Arran where they seemed bigger and juicy than eleswhere and very abundant on the island.
We stopped at the Torrylinn Creamery to buy some Arran made cheeses, a Dunlop!! was one and very tasty. From there we headed north past Whiting Bay to find a campsite between Kings Cross and Lamlash with a view of the Holy Isle. Again we were surrounded by blackberries on the campsite and nearby lanes. There was a path down to the beach from the campsite but wet and boggy in places. We decided to stay there for the rest of our time on the island.
The weather forcast was changing all the time but it seemed to give the best chances of a clear day on Tuesday so I opted for a stroll up "Goat Fell" and Helen to have a swim and sauna, and then meet up later. Helen dropped me near High Corrie north of Brodick and from there I meade my way up to the hills in low cloud. Unfortunately, the cloud remained above about 700 m which meant the peak at 874 m was shrouded with only the sparodic let-up to get a view to the valley. However, on the route down I got great views of the sea on either side of the island and Brodick Bay with Holy Isle in the background to the north-west.

Goat Fell peak from the path down to Brodick.
The route down, now in sunshine, was over rocks and moorland and gave views of the peaks around and also Brodick Bay. By the time I'd emerged from the forest on the Cladach road, I was ready for an Arran Ale (the track finished next to the brewery, good planning huh?)so it was a "Blondie" for me, although in retrospect, I'm better suited to the "Dark Ale"; I wonder if they have that in Poole's Tesco? Helen joined me with the camper after her swim. We also visited Brodick Castle and Gardens, and enjoyed seeing the walled garden and around the castle rooms. They had beds of "Vipers Bugloss" still in flower reminding me of the plant I'd managed to raise at home.
We went down to Lamlash again and spent some time on the beach with views over to the Holy Isle. I would have liked to have visited the island but by now the weather wasn't great with showers mingled with sunny spells. This gave some good chances to get photographs with light effects lasting only seconds as the dark clouds and sun competed.
From Arran we took the short ferry over to Claonaig from Lochranza and then drove a short way south on the west side of Kintyre to find another CL site with views of the sea and ferries to Kennacraig near Tarbet. From the campsite we could see other islands including Islay and Jura, "The Paps of Jura". The following day we headed to Oban and caught the ferry to Mull landing at Craignure. The weather so far had been mostly fine with some sun but from now on the prediction was for one good day and then getting worse, with storms predicted later in the week. Anyway, we found a campsite in Craignure as a base (there were only two campsites listed fon Mull)and then did a run up to Tobermory situated in the north of the island. This was pretty with the coloured houses and harbour but mostly for tourists we guessed. On the way back we decided to try the canoe again as the sun was trying. Anyway, to cut a long story short, we almost sank in the middle of the loch!! but we did have our life jackets on (which Bex and Em had given us) but had found steering it difficult with one side deflated, and me in the rear almost lying on the water as all my support gave way; what a sight but luckily there was no one around to laugh at us.
Then the weather showed it had been kind enough for this trip and blasted our campsite with a gale and rain making sleeping a challenge. It was so bad we stayed on site the next day and taught ourselves Mah Jong. Things did improve enough for us to go down to Fionnphort and a view of Iona, although when we reached Fionnphort the wind was up again and there was no-way I'd be going on a ferry. On the way back we decided to take "the scenic route" which involved travelling on a "footpath" between the sea and rocks along Loch Scidain. Passing places were few and far between and with the camper, the road width meant Helen spent most of the journey clutching the seat arms and telling me to put my glasses on!! Luckily, rush hour had passed and we only met three or four cars on the trip which eventually emerged at the main road at Salen.
We then left Mull; oh yes I've forgot to say, we did see a Sea Otter at the harbour in Craignure. It was a surprise as we walked along the seafront at dusk near the Cragnure pub, and we both spotted what at first looked like a seal in the water and coming towards the shore. Then I noticed it had a long tail and the movement in the water was different from a seal(budding naturlist huh?). It came ashore and we got a good view of it as it climbed up the beach towards a large rock. As we got closer, we lost it so it must have come further up the beach or escaped back to the water (or merged into the rock!).
From Mull we went south again to eventually reach the Lake District and then on to see Emily for the weekend and a pleasant walk around Tittesworth Water (not far from Rudyard and Leek)before continueing south to Derbyshire and then Nottinghamshire to see family as we hadn't been able to since our New Zealand trip. We had good weather for a trip around the Dales including a short walk in Dovedale and over the famous stepping-stones. It was good to see everyone was well and all the children, how quickly they grow.
Now back in Dorset attending to the garden and camper with plans to join in the U3A for Mah Jong and Purbeck Cycling. All my seeds and plants survived without me so I now have the greenhouse full again as the nights get cooler.

On Mull looking over to the Isle of Iona and the castle.