In 2011 we cycled the Deveon Coast to Coast Cycleway as part of our 41 st anniversary which was our first long distance cycle trip. This year, our 56 th anniversary, we thought we'd cycle a route around and across Dartmoor National Park, This time we were aided by e-bikes or power assisted cycles, the same ones we'd used on the Coast and Castle North Cycle route in September 2024.
The route was a little complex as it involved different National Cycleway Routes (NCRs). We started on the NCR 28 route from Totnes, through Dartington and on to Staverton, through Denbury to skirt Newton Abbot (we left the 28 to aviod the centre of Newton Abbot) and then onto Bovey Tracy to pick up a tramway (still NCR 28) to Moretonhampstead for an overnight stop. The second day, we continued on NCR 28 to Okehampton going via Chagford. The third day we joined our route from 2011 along the Devon Coast to Coast, NCR 27, for an overnight stop at Tavistock. The final day, perhaps the most demanding, was to cross the Dartmoor National Park on the High Moor Link that connects Tavistoke with Buckfast, a distance of about 40 km (25 miles) but on very hilly terrain. We finished the ride on NCR 207 from Buckfastleigh to Dartington. The total distance was 159 km (about 100 miles) over four days with lots of stops on route for breaks, lunch and to see around the towns.
Day 1.
Leaving Dartington we followed a route we'd done before by descending to Staverton to cross the river Dart and then on country lanes to Denbury. Anyone who has cycled in Devon will be aware of the country lanes and holloways that are tarmaced but narrow so that generally only one vehicle can pass and if you're on a bike, this usually means dismounting. There are sometimes"passing places", but it is difficult to gain much speed as the hedges are generally high and the lanes are often very bendy giving you little vision of what is coming around the corner. Vehicle drivers are generally carefull and most of the traffic avoid these narrow lanes. However, you do often meet delivery vans and farming vehicles or tractors, so progress is generally slow. Another problem with these lanes is that they are very badly maintained with lots of potholes, loose grit and mud/grass in the centre. Although designated as NCR routes and often have appropriate signage, they are not maintained as cycleways so you have to be careful, particularly when on steep slopes or where they are being used by farm machinery.
Once at Denbury, the Union Inn was not open but we took a short break before progressing towards Newton Abbot passing between the Ogwell villages to High Week. Here we followed a good cycle path on the outskirts of Newton Abbot to pickup a cycleway signed to Bovey Tracey alongside Jetty Marsh Nature Reserve. Here we came across our first coffee stop at MT Tums.
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| Cycletrack near our fist stop at MT Tums. |
We then joined the cycle path, an old tramway, to Bovey Tracy. This was pleasant cycling with minimum gradient taking us to our lunch stop at "Cafe 3 Sixty". It was nice to see other cyclists, obviously a popular venue enjoying the good autumn weather. After this, it was easy going along a cycle/walk way to the south of Lustleigh where it joined a minor road for about 2 km to reach the village. This was a slight diversion from the route but we'd heard about this picturesque village from others and as we had plenty of time, we took the opportunity. The village is known for it's May Queens (there is a list carved on the rocks in the nearby orchard at the end of the village) and has a cafe, post office and general store as well as a local pub. We spent some time in the orchard with the apple trees ready for harvest and dropping many of the smaller ones because of the dry weather we'd had this year.
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| Scenic spot in the village orchard. |
We continued on the cycleway to Moretonhampstead and found our accomodation at "The White Hart" in the centre of town. We were able to store and charge our bikes in a function room so that was convenient and saved us having to remove the batteries. Just as an aside note, we had covered 39 km today but used 55 km of our predicted battery distance so that meant a difference by a factor of 0.69. In other words, if the battery indicator predicts we can do 100 km, infact on this type of hilly terrain we will be able to do 69 km. Generally I have found that in Devon hilly terrain, I can do between 0.5 and 0.7 of the predicted distance putting alot of effort into the ride and mostly using "Standard" and "Eco plus" power settings. I haven't really been able to test it on flat roads.
Moretonhampstead is a small town and it didn't take long to have a stroll around and then dinner at the hotel. Although the weather had been fine, the forecast wasn't good so we were prepared for the worst.
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| Moretonhampstead in the evening sun. |
Day 2.
The destination for the day was Okehampton following the NCR 28 that passes though Chagford. The weather proved to be fine with no rain just the occasional black cloud. The first part of theroute to Chagford was not pleasant as it passed though some of the worst lanes I have encountered with steep short hills, pot holes in the road and loose grit/grass in the centre. On entering Chagford I recall the square from when I walked the Two Moors way. There is a hardware store in the centre that remains in business, a rare thing nowadays as many of the better private hardware stores have closed. There are other interesting private stores but we soon found a cafe and had a pleasant chat with a couple from East Anglia who were touring on their 60 th anniversary.
The roads did improve, but then we met vans on climbs that meant dismounting and then trying to get on again ! The bikes have walk modes that allows some help but it is frustrating at the best of times.
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| A junction near Throwleigh viilage hall on the minor roads on route to South Zeal. |
We stopped at South Zeal (slightly off route) for a Ploughman's Lunch and break.
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| Our lunch stop at South Zeal. |
After that, we rejoined the NCR 28 to Sticklepath (there is also a pub here) and then cycled up long lane to get to Belstone with an open heath area, luckily meeting few cars on the way. Then it was downhill to meet the tramway to Okehampton.
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| Approaching Belstone at the top of the hill. |
Okehampton is a larger town and still busy with visitors. We stayed at "The Fountain Inn" in the centre and they let us park our bikes in an outhouse and charge our bikes there. We ate nearby at an Indian restaurant and had a stroll around the town. We had stayed dry but noticed how the temperatures had dropped during the evening getting below 10 C at night. We didn't recall much from our visit here on the Devon Coast to Coast some years ago but we both remember the steep incline from the town to join the NCR 27 first thing in the morning.
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| Okehampton, one of the main streets. |
Day 3.
We left before 10 am and followed the way we had come into town and then turning left at the top of the hill to gain the old rail link to Lydford gorge. This was pleasant cycling with a slight uphill gradient to start with and then on reaching the summit of the Coast to Coast, downhill to Lydford. This is a tarmaced cycleway that enables great views across the valley and was shared with a few other cyclists. On reaching the gorge, we diverted to the Waterfall Cafe and enjoyed a break in the morning sunshine. We had stopped here before and walked the gorge.
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| Meldon Viaduct on route to Sourton and Lydford gorge. |
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| The end of the cycleway before Lydford gorge. |
After refreshments, we went on to Mary Tavy passing through North Brentor and onto the high moor with great views:
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| View across the moor with Brentor church on top of a hill (334 m) just visible. |
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| Our first near encounter with the Dartmoor ponies looking for snacks I think. |
After this we descended to the river Tavy valley skirting Mary Tavy and going about a kilometer further to find the Mary Tavern Inn for our meal. The garden gave us good views of Dartmoor and a relaxing lunch location with plenty of time to enjoy.
Descending to the NCR route, we soon entered a walking track to cross the river on a wooden bridge. If I recall from our previous visit here, this section was closed for works, maybe the bridge. The path was rough with rocks and vegetation and was a squeeze at times but soon widened and followed roads and tramway for the rest.
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| The bridge over the Tavy. |
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| A view of the river in the late summer flow. |
On our last trip on the Coast to Coast, we didn't stop in Tavistock but continued on NCR 27 to Plymouth which is mostly downhill. This time we stopped at "The Tavistock Inn" overnight and had time to wander around and caught the Friday markets and stores in town. This time we had to remove our batteries for recharging but the bikes were safely stored outside.
Day 4.
Our last day was expected to be the most challenging with about 50 km over Dartmoor on the "High Moor Link", that connects Tavistock with Buckfast in the south. However, we were fortunate with great weather and even some sunshine at times without the infamous Dartmoor mist.
We left a little earlier than usual to cross the river Tavy and immediately ascend to the moor on a wide road.
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| One of the road junctions on the high moor and pointer to the route down to Walkhampton. |
The route was fine all the way to Dousland after which we took a more major road to Princetown and up a long incline that gave us a good workout.
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| Dousland before turning towards Princetown, |
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| Start of the incline. A few cars but generally not a busy road. |
We took a break at Ha'penny pool before finding a cafe in Princetown.
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| It looks bleaker than it was at Ha'penny pool and a welcome breather from the incline. |
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| Our stop in Princetown. |
There was a good exibition of country life on the moor in the visitors centre which looked like it had recently been renovated. From here we left the village, passing the now closed prison, and continued on a wide road across the open moorland.. We stopped at Huccaby bridge and then ascended to "The Forest Inn" for lunch. The bridge is a scenic spot aside the river just before a narrow stone bridge,
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| A pool at Huccaby bridge, a welcome sight in the summer heat. |
After this it was a very steep climb to Combestone Tor, and I mean steep leaving us both puffing and ready to photograph the tor. I think I saw a sign saying 25 % gradient and it seemed that way, at least the highest gradient of the trip.
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| Combestone Tor from the road. |
The rest of the route to Holne was easier with less steep roller-coaster hills passing Venford Reservoir and minor roads to Holne. The village was very busy so we walked through and saw the road down to Scorriton passing "The Tradsmen Arms" before a very pleasant descent on lanes to Buckfast Abbey.
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| Afternoon tea at Buckfast Abbey, a final stop before reaching home. |
From the Abbey it was a familiar ride to Buckfastleigh and on the old Totnes road to Dartington.
