Western Crete - a short visit

We've just spent a week on the Greek island of Crete staying in a house in Nopighia (Nopigia) situated on the north coast at the western side of the island. The accommodation was facing Kissamos Bay (also known as Bay of Kastelli) , literally our veranda had steps to a beach with only a few more across sand and gravel to let us cool down in the Mediterranean. The village has a small shop and three Tabernas within easy walking distance. The road to the east terminates after a couple of kilometres and after passing a campsite, becomes a track that leads along the shoreline to a small chapel under the hills. We shared our holiday with Iain and Elaine, Helen's brother and his wife.

"Our Bay" looking from the east towards the town of Kissamos (Kastelli) and across the bay.

The view from our veranda after sunset looking west across the bay towards the mountains; the sun had set behind the mountain.

With our transport, a small car for the narrow roads, we were able to explore the far-western part of the island. One day we did a circular route passing through Topolia to the Monastery at Chrisoskalitisa and then south to the beaches at Elafonisos. This small village was a total surprise to us as we neared the beach to see hundreds of sunbathers with their coaches and cars all over; not a place for us to stay long in the heat of the day! We returned to Kissamos by the coastal road that climbed to give great views over the various bays, scrub and farmland.

As the next day was cooler, we did a walk through the Irini Gorge between Agia Irini and Soughia. We had a few drops of rain in the morning but the temperature soon reached the mid twenties. The path was well marked over fairly rough ground with adequate water points and the luxury of toilets and seats at points along the way. The gorge narrows to a few feet at one point but it was still a pleasant temperature with the shade from lots of vegetation which we were told was particularly lush this year. We only met a few people, mainly towards the end of the gorge, near a Taberna where we had a welcome lemonade. 

Helen making her way along the footpath as it carved a pleasant walk under the cliffs.

Here you can see the narrowest part of the Irini Gorge; just in case you are wondering, the red arrow shows where you have to squeeze through!

We had a late lunch in Soughia (Sougia) overlooking the beach. This is a small village with a bus service to Chania and also to and from the gorge.

The village of Soughia looking from the west of the main beach. The coastal path goes across this section. The beach itself is grit and pebbles and didn't attract many sunbathers in-spite of the sunshine.

After a break, we spent a further few days exploring the areas to the south including the Botanical Gardens near Fournes, the oldest Olive tree in the world (and museum about the Olive industry) at Ano Vouves, a vineyard near Dhrapanias, the Rodhopou Peninsular and Chania city. The Botanical Gardens were excellent with a restaurant and well-marked paths and plant labels, so I have lots of photos to educate myself! We did learn a lot about the main agriculture of the area, olive growing, and were surprised by the quality and variety of the local wines some of which we tasted at the vineyard.

The oldest olive tree in the world reported to be over three thousand years old and still producing olives. Olive trees are fire and drought resistant. However, in the Botanical Gardens we saw several old olive trees that had been destroyed in a fire that swept through the park.

In western Crete it is clear that the main means of making a living for the locals is through tourism with many Tabernas and places catering for tourists that either made their own way around or by mini "trains" or coaches from the main beach resorts or centres. It was very busy in Chania so I dread to think what it is like in the main season in July and August. I think for us either May-early June or September would be ideal as there is little rain and temperatures are usually in the mid-twenties. We had a few days above 30 C but I gather that this is unusual for early June. There are many "gorge walks" and also a long distance E4 path but I understand that this is not too well marked. I used the "Topo 25" Sameria-Sougia 1 : 25,000 map for the walk (not really necessary) and the "Harms-Verlag" 1:100,000 touring map of western Crete which has contours and many minor tracks are marked if you do want to go off-road.

Finally our flight to Bournemouth was delayed for three hours because of the French air traffic controllers actions. Each time we have been to Europe this year they have done something to upset things!!