The Travels of Alan and Helen: A Walk in the Northern Lakes, Cockermouth to Keswick via Ennerdale.

This time I went to Lancaster by train without a bike to join Emily on a walk starting in Cockermouth and ending in Keswick, both towns convenient for train and bus links to Lancaster. The first stage was a train from Lancaster to Penrith and then on to Cockermouth for lunch by a short bus journey. The weather prediction was mixed although we were lucky for the first two days with only wind to contend with on higher ground.

Emily and me next to the river Cocker in Cockermouth at the start of our walk.

A pleasant view of Loweswater in the Vale of Lorton were we camped near the shore at the west side of the lake.

The first day was mainly across farmland, initially by the banks of the river, tracks and a short section on minor roads through Mosser and then by a farm track aside Askhill Knot to descend to the lake and a good nights camping near Loweswater. A pleasant and varied days walking, mostly in sunshine with views of the hills around us.

The following day we headed for Mosedale and over Floutern Cop (447 m) descending to the head of Ennerdale Water, the most westerly lake of the National Park. The walk down the valley was very pleasant with the occasional glimpse of the sun but as we took to higher ground the cold wind took over and shortly afterwards we took shelter behind a sheep pen wall before making the final descent off the moorland.

View looking east from near Floutern Cop, a windy and exposed spot.

Our first sight of Ennerdale Water as we descended to the west end of the lakes shore through sheep country.

We had lunch on the lakeside with a very strong wind blowing across the lake so that it was hard to find shelter to brew up a coffee on my stove. I have started to use my Himalaya stove that I resurrected after using diesel and clogged the fuel tube; after cleaning and servicing, it now works perfectly again.

After a pleasant walk along the lake and slightly beyond the end we found the YHA Ennerdale hostel for the night and just before the weather took a nasty turn with horizontal rain and low cloud covering the valley. It wasn't particularly busy with one other walker doing the Coast to Coast. This YHA is modern and well equipped for walkers so we had a great evening meal and breakfast before setting off to the next hostel, "Black Sail" which is one of the remotest hostels in England about 6 miles from the nearest road and accessible by foot or cycle (unless you have a four wheel drive vehicle!!). On route we met two Search and Rescue landrovers with mountain rescue members who had been part of a team of 60 who'd been searching all night for a fell-runner who had been on the mountains from the afternoon before. He was rescued by helicopter early in the morning .

View to the end of Ennerdale showing the moraine hummocks deposited during glaciation about 12,000 years ago. Also evident are "The Tongue" (upper centre), "Windy Gap" and both Green and Great Gable (peak on the right). The stream in the foreground arises near "Windy Gap", the main col on the skyline.

Once settled, we had lunch and then climbed up the ridge to "Black Sail" pass and then beyond to "Looking Stead" that gave great views of Ennerdale valley and from the pass, Wast Water lake to the south. The climb to the pass did involve a steep rock section but otherwise was an easy climb.

View from "Black Sail" pass to the south into Mosedale and a glimpse of Wast Water lake in the distance.

If we had more time it would have been challenging to continue on the transverse below Pillar Rock back to the valley floor.

Ems approaching the bottom of the Pillar still with a clear sky.

After this the weather changed dramatically again during the evening and the next day shrouding the summits and passes in cloud. Our plan was to hold-fast for a day in the hope of better weather to climb up to "Windy Pass" and Green/Great Gable. In the event, the weather forecast was optimistic and we left the next morning in low cloud with a 30% chance of clear views from the top. During our stay at the hostel we met quite a few walkers doing the "Coast to Coast" and using the hostel as a lunch stop; they were on a schedule and continued on their route into the clouds and rain.

The early morning view from below the clouds as we climbed the "Tongue" towards "Windy Gap". This gives some impression of the Ennerdale valley that is being "rewilded" according to the National Trust and Forestry Commision.

The pass lived up to its name and the views weren't brilliant but at least we could look forward to getting below the cloud on the descent.

The route up to "Windy Gap" was difficult because of the wet conditions, cloud and indistinct paths which appeared and disappeared with the changing terrain. After a while we were ascending slowly by a stream but this was difficult going so we took a compass bearing to the east and then south-east to find the scree leading to the pass between Green and Great Gable. The conditions were terrible as we ascended the last section with rain and wind battering us all the way. We passed a lone hiker on the top but it was difficult to chat as we headed down Aaron Slack on another scree slope that, although steep, led to steps and then a rough track by a stream. It was great to dip beneath the clouds as the rain lessened and get a view of Sty Head tarn in the distance and our route to the waterfall and valley bottom at Seathwaite.

View from the end of the tarn to Borrowdale, our route to the YHA at Borrowdale.

We continued from Seathwaite along a local footpath to reach the hostel and then made camp in the adjacent field with all the luxuries that this hostel offers. By now the weather had improved in the valley to a sunny day and in the morning our tents remained dry making an easy start after a welcome cooked breakfast.
Our last day of walking was along the Cumbria Way to Keswick. This path goes along the west side of the lake, first by the river Derwent to eventually reach Derwent Water.

Our lunch spot overlooking the village of Grange listening to the Cuckoos, obviously a favourite spot for them in the wooded valley.

We had a great walk in the spring sunshine in many places just a stones throw from the lake shore as the path wound over hummocks and through mixed woodland. We met a few others who had taken the ferry boat from Keswick to various landing stages on the lake.

We stayed at the Camping and Caravanning Club site on Derwent Water camping a few metres from the lake shore. This is an excellent site for walkers as the tent area is close to the lake and amenities and has a "Backpackers" room with a table and microwave. They also have picnic tables in the tent camping area, always a welcome addition when you only have a small tent. We had a great stay in the sunshine enjoying the relative luxuries of Keswick town centre only a few minutes walk away. We ended the trip by taking a bus from Keswick to Penrith (they're about every hour) and then a train down to Lancaster.