Ordesa Canyon, Pyrenees

We have just returned from a weeks holiday in Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park in the Spanish Pyrenees staying in chalets (or bungalows) in the Ordesa campground just north of the village of Torla. We stayed in the cabin "Mondarruego" which faces the cliff of the Ordesa canyon of the same name and made a great breakfast view.
I have been to Torla before whilst walking on the GR11 and to the park with Bex, also on a hike. This time we went as a family including Bex, Tony, Emily, Sam and Esmee and not forgetting ourselves. Helen hadn't been to this part of the Pyrenees so it was all new to her and Emily hadn't been to the Spanish Pyrenees and wanted to join me in some walks in the mountains. Of course Sam and Esmee (3 years and 7 months respectively) didn't do a lot of walking but enjoyed the ice cold rivers, exploring the woodlands and the play areas or swimming pool at the campsite not to mention the fantastic weather with temperatures of up to 32 C and dry.

We travelled by air to Toulouse and picked up a rental to drive to the Bielsa tunnel and onto to Ainsa (in Sobrarbe) following the Rio Cinca before taking the Ara valley and driving north to regain the high mountains passing through Fiscal, Broto and Torla. Emily had a longer journey by train through London and Paris to Toulouse to meet us at the airport.

During our visit, this part of Spain was experiencing a heat wave with temperatures over 40 C in Zaragosa. As we were at a higher altitude, our temperatures were lower but the air was dry and so the heat was pleasant but it did mean we had to carry plenty of water on the hikes. Also Esmee felt the heat at times so had a cold bath to refresh and cool down. Sam enjoyed paddling in the ice cold rivers that ran off the high mountains that surround Ordesa Canyon.

The Pradera car park in the canyon (at about 1300 m altitude) was still open to private vehicles (it is served by buses in the main tourist season and the number of visitors per day is limited), so it was a short and zig-zag drive to the parking area (here you can get refreshments and food) and then a walk into the canyon along a new path (usable by wheel chairs) on the south side of the Rio Arazas to reach two bridges over the river with access to the flood plain and river pools. The valley walk was very pleasant through beech woods and in places alongside waterfalls as the river cascaded down the valley from the main waterfall, the Cola de Caballo, at the canyon head, Rincon de Soaso, at 1756 m height.

Rincon de Soasa at the head of Ordesa Canyon with Monte Perdido and Pico de Anisclo in view. The Faja Pelay path descends on the right hand side of the canyon wall.

Even though snow wasn't so evident at higher altitudes as in previous years, the streams still cascaded from the walls to the canyon floor. This was most evident as the trees gave way to open meadows and a grazing herd of cattle. The track to the waterfall can be seen on the top right of the picture.

Emily and I had a picnic at the waterfall and enjoyed cooling our feet before descending and meeting up with the others as they played in the river and explored the local flora very much in abundance at this time of year.

St Bruno Lily, Paradisea Liliastrum, growing besides the track.

We also went a couple of times to San Nicolas de Bujaruelo (again on the GR11) where there is a refuge, the remains of an historic chapel and a medieval bridge over the Rio Ara, Puente de Bujaruelo. The gravel track up the Valle de Bujaruelo is much improved since my last visit and was well-graded although narrow in places but OK for cars.. This starts at the Puente Viejo off the road that climbs into the canyon and basically follows the valley to the end where the refuge is and the Valle de Ara  follows south of the border ridge eventually reaching the foot of Vignemale (the highest summit in the French Pyrenees). It is also a stopping place for the pilgrims on the "Way of St James" with the old refuge dating back to the 12 th century when the original bridge was probably built. The pilgrims way is now signed and is a comfortable days walk over the border ridge to Gavarnie in France.

Whilst the rest of the family enjoyed paddling and diving in the cold river water at a deep pool near the bridge, Ems and I set-off to explore the Ara valley. We started by crossing the river and bearing left to follow a path near the bank. This soon joined a track through the forest that gradually gained altitude and allowed glimpses of the river and a large cascade. On the right we passed a waterfall descending to form a stream over the track and soon rounding a bend, came to the Refugio del Vado d'Ordiso with a concrete bridge crossing the river in the valley below. From here, looking across the valley, we could see the footpath that leads into the Valle de Ordisa and eventually crosses a ridge and reaches Panticosa.

View over the Ara valley near Refugio del Vado d'Ordiso and looking west into the Valle de Ordiso. I think it is  Pico Mallarnego (2684 m) in the distance.

From the refuge, we picked up a single path that threaded its way through rocky meadows strewn with wildflowers and all the time in sight and sound of the main river. Most of the side streamlets were dry.

One of the larger flowers we spotted on route - a Pyrenees lily (Lilium pyrenaicum).

After a while we found a lunch spot in partial shade to enjoy the view of the mountains surrounded by a patch of Burnt orchids (Orchis ustulata). It turned out we had chosen a great position as soon we heard the alarm call and spotted a couple of Marmots and soon after, a Pyrenees deer, Rebeco, meandered across a stream below us and then dashed out of view to appear again a few minutes later.

View from our lunch spot looking down to the valley bottom. From here we heard and spotted two marmots and also a Rebeco (Chamois in French; this is just visible in the middle of the frame and about a 1/3 rd of the way down). 

It would have been great to continue up the valley and spend more time exploring but time called and we had to retrace our steps back to the refuge and refreshments.

Faja Pelay

One of the walks in the canyon I had wanted to try on a previous visit but didn't have time was the ledge walk on the south side of the canyon. I had read a little about it and still wasn't sure how steep or exposed it was but on one of the days, Ems and I decided to give it a go. It is said to be one of the most picturesque walks in Europe with great views of the entire canyon and Perdido massive (the highest limestone massive in Europe) which rises above the head of the canyon.

Ramonda des Pyrenees (Ramoda myconi) spotted on a shady ledge on our ascent to the  terrace.

The 22 km walk is circular starting at the carpark, climbing the canyon side to a ledge (probably better called a terrace) and following the terrace to the Ricon de Soaso and returning along the canyon floor path. It starts at about 1300 m elevation and the initial climb is to 1945 m and then undulates a little to eventually make a gradual descent to 1756 m at the waterfall.

The path is signposted just after the first bridge from the carpark taking the south side of the river. It then ascends on a leafy track on well placed zig-zags and eventually takes on a more rock-strewn guise going through a beautiful beech woodland. A few places mean taking handholds but the path is wide although exposed in places but nothing particularly dangerous and out of the ordinary in these mountains. After crossing one gorge, we heard a loud whooshing sound and looked up to see a packed sleeping back tumbling down the canyon side at some speed and continuing down out of view.

In all we took about two hours to ascend to the terrace and a lookout point, with only a few stops to rest and take in the view. There is a small refuge at the mirador and a solid platform that allows panoramic views of the north wall and cascades of the canyon and along the floor as far as the eye can see. The terrace itself is not exposed but meanders along the wall, sometimes losing height and then gaining it, sometimes through open meadows balanced on the terrace or winding its way through pine woodland. On one stretch we spotted a Rebeco in front of us crossing our path and descending into woodland on a steep slope, how amazing. Also there was a proliferation of flowers including the red Rhododendron ferrugineum or alpine rose and many others too many to mention or even photograph, a botanist heaven I should imagine.

Faja Pelay. Can you spot the Rebeco?

A little further on I was a little surprised to spot in the distance the Breche de Roland (above the north wall of the canyon) with its underlying snow band still intact; this is a remarkable gate in the rock wall and one of the cross border routes into France.

Looking across to the north wall and beyond. Can you spot the Breche de Roland, the gate in the border ridge in the skyline  in the middle of the photo? The cascade is the Cotatuero the focal point for another Faja walk in the canyon.

A little further on we lost sight of the Breche but got great views of the mountains above the canyon including the highest peak in the massive. At this stage the waterfall and the Refuge Goriz (2195 m)  were out of view and only revealed themselves as we moved further north along the path. 

View to the head of the canyon with the path to the waterfall evident but not the waterfall itself.  The three main peaks on the massive are (from left to right), Cilindro de Mamores (3325 m), Monte Perdido (3348 m) and Pico de Anisclo (3257 m, also called Soum de Ramond). In front of  Perdido is Punta de las Escalezetas (3021 m) and in front of Anisclo is Murrion de Arrablo (2792 m).

The Cola de Caballo revealed as we descended gradually to the canyon floor.

During the descent we did get a brief glimpse of the Refuge set below the massive and a staging post for exploring the limestone plateau and massive as well as on the route of the GR11 footpath and making a popular overnight stay in the refuge or camping outside.

After a leisurely lunch cooling our feet in the ice-water, we trod carefully over the flower meadows past the start of the path to gain access to the refuge and across the bridge to follow the valley floor back to the start of the walk.

This is a brilliant one day walk with exhaustive views of the canyon and higher mountains not to mention wild life and flowers galore. In good weather, the route is safe and we found it in good condition. The only real exposure is on the initial ascent and if you can avoid flying sleeping bags, all to your advantage!

Also we all explored the local villages, Torla and Broto. Both have small supermarkets and bakers and Torla has a new park information centre with information on the flora and fauna as well as the history of the park. The tourist information office remains in the main square, Plaza Aragon and there are various restaurants and bars. We had Ems birthday lunch at the "Bar el Taillon" in Torla which was great in the sunshine with plenty of space for Sam to work off some lunch!

The drive back to Toulouse was easier as we were able to stop a couple of times on route. We had a pleasant breakfast in Ainsa at the "Restaurante Dos Rios" in Spain (they have a play area for children!) in the short walk to see the Rio Cinca and our last views of Mont Perdido.

Rio Cinco  flowing through Ainsa with Monte Perdido and Soum de Ramond in the far distance.

After that it was a long journey home for us all accept Ems had an even longer one with an overnight stay in Paris. Happily, the temperatures at home matched those in the mountains being in the 30 C mark but more humid.

Hasta luego to the Pyrenees!