A walk across the Aiguestortes National Park: Vall de Boi to Vall d'Aran

I had never visited the Vall de Boi as the GR11 crosses the northern part of the Park so I was looking forward to walking to the Los Encantados mountains by a different route. I stayed in the village of Eriil la Vall on the western side of the valley, more or less opposite Boi and spent a day exploring the area up towards Caldes de Boi and Boi itself. The latter village has restaurants and a 4WD taxi company that provides transport into the National Park as private vehicles are not allowed access. Just south of Boi, on the Cami de la Aqua footpath, there are some grand lookout points and a barbeque area that overlooks the Vall de Boi. It was here that I saw two Golden Eagles, my only sighting of raptures on the whole trip.

The following day I walked into the Park along the Cami de la Aqua (this goes to Caldes de Boi but you can cross the river south of La Farga to access the road to the main car park; this takes about an hour from Erill).

Erill la Vall , where I stayed (at the bottom of photo) taken from the path south of Boi.

The route joined a track alongside a lake, the Estany Llebreta and then past "Mirador de la Cascade" to reach the plain, "Planell d'Aiguestortes". This is as far as the taxis are able to go so I met several day walkers strolling in a tranquil setting of woods and running water, Aiguestortes meaning "twisted waters".

Plannel d'Aiguestortes, a lunchtime stop and water refill before the climb to Estany Llong.

A short climb from the plain I was able to sit and watch an Isard (Chamois) gingerly crossing a meadow. I had already seen and heard a few Marmots but this was my first sighting of an Isard. At the same time I almost bounded from my seat as a tree behind me decided it was time to lie down with a loud crack. 

I stayed two nights at the Refuge Llong set near the lake of the same name.

Estany Llong looking east to the Portarro d'Espot (my route onwards) with the Pic del Portarro (2734 m) in the middle  of the scene. The wild Mallards here were very tame!

I had time to explore the area going to Estany Redo, a small glacial lake set above Estany Llong, the Estany Nere area and the view from "Mirador del Portarro" looking down to Estany de Sant Maurici, the most famous lake in the area.

Estany Redo, a tranquil setting  enclosed by mountains. 

The following day I followed the trail to the pass (Portarro d'Espot) and then a long descent to Lake Sant Maurici and the mountain Refuge Ernest Mallafre. This was a relatively easy hike on a good track with great views of several high peaks including Portarro, Saboredo and of course the twin peaks of Los Encantados (named els Encantats on my map).

Estany de Sant Maurici from the view-point near the pass. There is no view of the lake from the actual pass track

A drink stop after descending out of the wind at the pass.

Typical wild country of the Aiguestortes. In the distance to the north is Tuc de Saboredo and Pics de Bassiero forming the chain  of the northern extent of the Park. The GR11 winds its way down that valley somehow!

The Ernest Mallafre Refuge is a small mountain shelter with a Spanish warden who does an excellent job of welcoming walkers and climbers even though he doesn't speak much English himself. I had two pleasant nights here with amazing dinners. I took the opportunity to explore the Valleta Seca, the normal route to access the scree shute that leads to the summit of the Los Encantados, the Monestero valley leading to a lake and pass of the same name, and finally the circular path around Lake Sant Maurici. I have already included a photo at the beginning of this account of the scenic Monestero valley where I spotted many Wheatear, Black Redstarts and hundreds of  Crag Martins nesting in the cliffs.

A less dramatic view of the Los Encantados, here showing the Grand Pic from the south side (Monestero valley) and the scree shute where I watched two climbers descend. The Crag Martins were nesting on the cliffs to the right.

The last leg of my trip was a hike to Espot and then on to La Guingueta on the GR11, just for old times sake! and then over the Portillon pass (eth Portihon) from Bossost to Luchon (avoiding landslides!). The path on the Spanish side of the Portillon was the old Mule track mentioned in some of the older books on the Pyrenees such as Belloc and Morton. Unfortunately, Morton's fears have been realised and there is now a good road joining the Vall d'Aran with Luchon (completed in 1935). He commented from his campsite near the Portillon:" --- and then I began to wonder why no broad road ran over the mountains here for the Luchon tourists, and shuddered at the thought of what would happen to the Val d'Aran if ever maniacs started to "develop" the district." The Spanish took care to leave the old Mule track but I couldn't find any trace of it on the French side; I suspect it is under the road for most of the way, what a pity as it would make a fine walk.

Probably one of the most flattering views of the twin peaks. This was taken from the northern shore of  Estany de Sant Maurici. There is a path that goes around the lake but it does involve a few river crossings.

Mule track over the Portillon from Spain returning to France and Luchon. No zig-zags here !

And here my trip ends; I have dozens of shots of the amazing array of flowers, lizards and crickets I came across, but that's another story.  Adios.