Now in New Brighton South on the east side of Christchurch having been on Banks Peninsular for a few days, Sumner and Taylor's Mistake. The latter is an ideal little spot if you like surfing and local walks in the scrub/hills but you need a sense of direction to find it!! At Akaroa we did a "Spot the Dolphin" trip and Helen swam with a pod of Hector's Dolphins in the Harbour; these are unique to NZ and the smallest dolphins in the world (we're told). Meanwhile I was the photogapher for an Aussie and another Brit lady who'd been forsaken, so I was busy clicking (see photo of Helen and a dolphin). We also did a day walk around (and up) the "Stony Peak"(806m) near Akaroa; it was hot & sunny and gave great views of the harbour and to the Pacific Ocean on the other side of the Peninsular (see photo).
The weather has improved in that we are dry and getting some sunshine so we're heading back into the mountains (Arthur's Pass through the Southern Alps)so hopefully it will keep clear for us to see the peaks. That's all for now..

Now at Timaru south of Christchurch. It's a cloudy day but not raining so far and we'v been travelling from in Southland down to Tuatapere near the south coast and east to Invercargill and the "Lands End" of NZ, Bluff. We took a ferry over to Stewart Island and spent a couple of days there with fine weather. We did some short walks including that around Ulva Island which is a wildlife sanctuary and we were lucky to see may rare birds including the South Island Robin and Saddleback.
After that, we went to Curio Bay and camped there amongst the flax plants and saw our first Yellow-eyed penguins coming up the beach after their day out at sea. They were nesting amongst the scrub on the shoreline and bringing back food for their youngsters. Also Alan managed to get charged by a Sea Lion which had decided to sunbathe next to the door of the camper. Undaunted we continued on up the coast to Dunedin where we needed a repair to our camper fridge, so whilst that was being done we went around the "Cadbury's World" factory. After that we visited the Royal Albatross Centre and saw loads of birds soaring around and on nests. This is the only mainland nesting site in the world as the others are on off-shore islands.
Last night, staying in Oamaru, we visited the Blue Penguin colony and saw over a hundred returning to their burrows at an old quarry site, that was between 9.30 and 10.30 pm; again they were nesting and the parents took it in turn to go fishing for the day, leaving at daylight and returning at dusk. The pics are of the Yellow-eyed penguins at Curio Bay and us at the Invercargill Gardens amongst the roses (we had a picnic lunch in the sun here!). Couldn't photograph the Blue Penguins because they are too shy and easily disturbed....oh didnt mention all the different Shags around here, lots of photos but won't bore you !!

Now south of Millford Sound on the west coast. We’ve had a bout of cold and wet weather but did get a few hours of almost clear sky for our cruise in Milford Sound. Because of the torrential rain over the last few days, all the waterfalls were flowing giving us some spectacular sights. We didn’t stop in Queenstown because of the weather and camped at Te Anau before travelling to Milford Sound and camping at Cascade Creek in a DOC site. Also saw a few Kea Parrots (Mountain Parrots) on route through the rain forests

Happy New Year..we’re still in Golden Bay near Collingwood spending a few days exploring the area and catching-up on camper jobs with plans to move off tomorrow towards Greymouth on the west coast and onto the Glaciers etc.
The tramp along the Abel Tasman coastline went well and we had our frozen Christmas lunch at Totaranui by the beach. We started at Wainui Bay on 24th and walked over the hill through Manuka scrub to Whariwharangi Bay where we camped. This area was very quiet as most walkers start or finish at Totaranui further on so we had the Bay to ourselves, apart from a Fur Seal and Pied Shags on the beach; we also mixed with hundreds of bees that swarmed over patches of sand (we think pouncing on sand fly larva) but they didn’t bother us. We did manage a campfire here with wood from the beach (lots and lots as usual) reminding us of Namibia and were later joined by another couple camping.
The next day to Totaranui was a climb and descent to Mutton Cove and other Bays before reaching the long beach and big campground. The “Trampers” camp was separate in a grass field by the beach and also covered with bees, funny to us! It had been a hot walk and sunny, so for the first time we went for a long swim (even though it was cold water!) and once in we noticed the changes in the sea temperature as pools of warmed water mixed with colder, very refreshing! Spectacular sunset for an evening walk along the beach and then to see all the Kiwis with their massive tents, freezers, boats, kayaks and you name it, they had it, camping in style!
On Boxing Day we followed the coast, sometimes on the beach, e.g. Goat Bay, before climbing over a wooded ridge to Awaroa Estuary, our first “critical” river/estuary crossing. This was easy but did entail removing boots and cooling our feet and legs (up to our knees) even at low tide, mainly because of the river crossing. This was a pleasant site but with lots of sand flies near the beach and again lots of bees on the sand paths nearby.
In the morning, to avoid the “heat of the day”, we were soon toiling uphill to the Tonga Saddle and down to our second “critical” crossing. I had been a little concerned about this one, the Onetahuti River crossing, as the park authorities warned that it could sometimes stop progress even at low tide. In the event we stepped across it in our boots over two hours before low tide! After more forest including lots of tree ferns and gullies, we reached Bark Bay in time for a wade across to the campsite. The Bark Bay campsite set on a peninsular of sand was pretty busy and although quiet to start with, we were soon joined by many other groups, the site next to us being South American students studying in NZ. Then we got our first rain in the night and a Possum, or something, had feasted on pasta in the students’ tent next door. We decided to have a quick breakfast in the covered kitchen area, pack our wet tent and get on our way hoping things improved…which they did. So next we had the added excitement of a passage over a long suspension bridge over the Falls River (the largest river in the park) and meandering around-up-down many gullies now with flowing water after the night’s rain. Soon we were sitting on a bench overlooking Torrent Bay and figuring out the route across the estuary and whether it was too early to cross. It turned out that the route was easy (being marked with large orange discs!) and the crossing possible. The Anchorage campsite is large with lots of space and many local walks to Bays and lookouts etc. We found a nice sunny spot and explored Te Pukatea Bay, a sandy bay just 20 minutes over a low ridge. At the campsite we met an Australian who’d come over especially to do the “Tramp” and was busy exploring all possibilities in the area, and also a group of Kiwis on their summer break. Also this was the first time we saw as well as heard the famous Bell Bird which with Tui (Parson Bird because of its white bib), were feeding on the nectar of wild Flax around our tent.
We had a night of rain, which in a small tent, tends to disturb our sleep! so by 7.20 h we had broken camp and left without breakfast, with a plan to stop later when the sun was out. Well it did work out that way but only after a long “drag” over a pass in drizzle to eventually reach picturesque Apple Tree Bay and breakfast with a cup of tea. From then on the going was easy, contouring close to the coast to reach our destination at Marahau. We did spot our first “Rifleman Bird” (about the size of a golf ball and no noticeable tail and so-called because of its green colour) on the way. By now we were looking forward to a hot shower at the campsite (they are use to trampers/kayers asking to use their showers!!) and a nice lunch at the café at the entrance to the park. From here, we’d arranged to get a bus to Riwaka and change to the “Golden Bay” coach to Pohara our campsite near the start of the walk.

The “Tramp” covers some stunning coastline and beautiful coves with soft or grainy sand. Our route was in the opposite direction to that taken by the majority of walkers and because of the tides it meant that we had the track to ourselves most of the time apart from the last hour near the end when we met lots of “day walkers” (a bit like dog walkers on the South West Way when approaching a town!). After Christmas and during January is the busiest time of year on the track but the number of people allowed into the park is decided by the number of camping & hut places. Apart from the campsites we stopped at (these had filtered water and covered kitchen areas) there are many smaller campsites, mainly in small coves, that also have idyllic settings but lack potable water (there is water but you have to treat it yourself) and they have toilets (usually long-drop). Of course all hut places and campsites have to be booked (the wardens did check us at every site). We did meet a couple without a tent having to do 9 hours walking on Christmas Day because there were no hut places available on route and because of the tidal crossing at Awaroe, they had to start before 6 in the morning. In general the track is very well maintained, well marked (I challenge anyone to get lost there), it does have a few steep gradients but less than 200 m altitude and is similar in difficulty to “moderate” graded sections of the South West Coastal Path.

We’re now in Wellington before getting the ferry to South Island. Since leaving the central mountains, we have been travelling around the west side of the country, going down to Wanganui and then along the coast of the South Taranaki Bight, getting glimpses of Mt Egmont in the cloud and rain. The weather didn’t improve in New Plymouth so we left there to travel south to Himatangi near Palmerstone North which was a nice location near a long beach and our first “Fish & Chips” at a Takeaway. Looking at the weather forecast, we decided to chase the summer on the east coast, so the next day we drove to Hastings and found a quiet campsite near Cape Kidnappers (Clifton Motor Park) where the beach and cliffs go around to the largest mainland Gannet colony in the world. Back in summer with temperatures up in the high twenties we stayed there for 6 nights enjoying the sun, walking to the Gannet colony, trips to Hastings and Napier and of course visiting vineyards and sampling the wine of the area. The climate here seemed like the south of France in August with our camper right next to the surf. So yesterday we had to leave and make our way south again passing alongside the Ranges, stopping at the Pukaha Mount Bruce, at DOC Wildlife Centre for Threatened Species. This was a great experience to see the Kaka parrots, Tuatara reptiles and a Takahe (flightless marsh type hen at one time thought extinct!). We found a small campsite nearby at Eketahuna besides a river and managed a walk around the woods before the rain set in for the night and so in the morning all the rivers were in spate, a chocolate colour. After that, a “blowy” drive got us alongside the Hut river over a 700 m pass to sunny Wellington where we are staying until Tuesday with a couple of days in the city (a short bus ride away). Photos are Mount Egmont (about the only glimpse!) and one of the colonies at Cape Kiddnappers.

Now in New Plymouth in the Taranaki Peninsula but rain and mist all day so hoping for better tomorrow. This is a photo down to the Emerald Lakes descnding from the top of Mt Tongariro. Great walk and I was lucky with the weather; it was clear all day without the winds they predicted. We've come around Highway 45 from Wanganui stopping last night in sight of Mt Egmont and next to the black sand dunes at a small recreational campsite near Manaia on the south coast. The cliffs and dunes there were quite different from what we've seen previously with layers of volcanic debris. Also we know where all the House Sparrows from England are, they're here! Everywhere they're busy nesting, chirping away and with the Yellowhammers, Skylarks and numerous Goldfinches, it is like the countryside when we were younger. We're not sure what we'll do next as we plan to canoe a stetch of the Whanganui river soon but this depends on the weather as we'll be camping at DOC sites and with rain, the river will be up. Otherwise we'll go to the east coast and south.

A Variable Oyster Catcher in the sand dunes amongst flowers. They're different from ours without the full white breasts, more like the Black Oyster Catches in South Africa. They were breeding amongst the dunes, together with New Zealand Dotterels, on the east coast of North Land.

We're now in Whanganui city till Tuesday and still hope to do some canoeing on the river for a few days. At the momet they're busy with school trips so we're keeping clear! I'll put some pics of the Tongariro alpine crossing later; it was great weather for it.

Stanley I presume? the explorer along the banks of the mighty Waikato river during our short "Tramp" from the Falls to get a view downstream. Our first Warbler sang for us near here and lots of "Pheasant Berry" growing wild. Helen made our first rope out of the NZ Flax that is everywhere, a trick we learned at the cultural centre. A little easier than nettle string but still hard work!! Anyway, the weather is changing to summer so we'll spend a few days here at L. Taupo.

Then back through Auckland to Cambridge, and further to Rotorua and the hot springs where we spent 3 days of good weather amongst the smelly steam and mud! The photo is the largest Geyser (30 foot) Pohutu that seems to erupt often. Also went to a Maori cultural event and wood carving and weaving schools. The park near the campsite and lake shore had areas steaming and mud bubbling, the whole area seemed alive. Lots of new birds on the Lake and our first large supermarkets to stock up. Really enjoying the relaxed driving (no cameras!!) and warm welcome at all the campsites. The sites are well equipped with kitchens and dining areas set aside for campers. So far they have not been very busy even though the weather is improving. The hot tubs have been nice in the evening as it doesn't get dark until about 8.30 -9.00 pm. On Sunday we did a great walk along the side of one of the volcanic lakes (Okareka, just S of Rotorua) in sunshine and each day we come across laid out walks somewhere; today it was the Waikato river near the Huka Falls.

Hello, this is the end of our journey to the north at Cape Reinga, the tip of Northland. You can just see the Puhutukawa tree where the Maori spirits leave to return home. From here we travelled down the west side of Northland to Ahipara and onto the Gannet colony at Muriwai beach first camping in the Waipoua forest amongst the giant Kaori trees. The walkway takes you right above the Gannet colony so we got great photos of the nesting birds including Terns. Our camper wasn't allowed to go down 90 mile beach!! but the scenery and waves reminded us of the Skelton coast of Namibia.

Helen relaxing and our hire camper at Pakiri Beach.

At the arch, the turning point on the Mangawhai walk.

10 th November: now at Mangawhai Heads in Northland on the east coast, north of Auckland. We've had good flights and time in Singapore. Did the usual bus tours, visited the Botanical Gardens to see their collection of Orchids, really amazing. The rest of the time we visited Changi PoW museum and the beaches nearby,
The camper is great, an older shorter version of the one we have (Fiat Ducata) so feels like home!! We've been stopping at campsites on beaches, Pakiri and Mangawhai Head and guess what, we've got a bird ID book already and the number of "new" on the list is increasing each day!! Almost spotted the really rare Fairy Tern! but have seen lots of others (won't bore you with details). Next it will be a tree book as the plants are so different from home but have seen lots of the Pohutukawa tree that will have red flowers at Christmas time and that seems to grow near the coast, even near sand dunes.
Today we did a walk along the Mangawhai Cliffs north with great views of the nearshore islands. We were supposed to return along the beach but even though it was 3 hours from high tide, the water level was up to our chests, so we decided against it.
The weather is mixed with some light showers and then sunshine, but it does change very quickly. It gets cool at night, down to 10 C and daytime up to 19 C. It should get warmer as we go north over the next week or so. Will try and post a picture of us at Mangawhai.

October, 2009. I've just finished a 100 mile stretch of the Southwest Coast Path from Barnstaple, Devon, to Padstow in Cornwall. The path between Hartland Point and Port Isaac was tough going at times with continous ups and downs. Only about 160 to 200 m each valley but several following each other in quick succession. Did a combination of camping and Bed & Breakfast. I was lucky with the weather, only 1 day of rain with mostly sunshine and cloud cover and no high winds. The route is well marked but not many supply points after Hartland quay for quite a while and had to ask villagers for water or take it from streams (treated this). The scenery is teriffic and it is hard to choose one photo from the hundreds I took. Only disappointment was the area around Clovelly which seemed to be overun with pheasants and the local gamekeepers were using the tracks to feed grain; sometimes I had 50 pheasants walking in front of me! The highlight was the cliffs at High Cliff and the path climbing up. I only met 2 other long-distance walkers, a young man who had come from Brighton and was a "pebble artist" walking the entire coast of the UK, and another chap walking the South Coast path. Of course, there were many dog-walkers particularly within a few kilometers of villagers or towns. All set now to continue through Cornwall, perhaps next spring.

Pyrenees, July 2009. GR11 in Catalonia, hot walking but a few springs still running. There were many changes to the route and some long days but great scenery with a rapid change in vegetation as I approached the coast. Only a few camp sites near the route and some camping places mentioned in the Guide (Paul Lucia) were not possible because of new National Reserves or developments.

Pyrenees, June 2009. View across the Lac du Col de Arratille at the Spanish border ridge, on route to the Ara valley and Ordesa and Refugio Goriz. Camped at Bujarelo before climbing over to Anisclo canyon. Great weather with clear skys all the way.

June 2009. Another great time in Pyrenees walking for 3 weeks, first in the high mountains around Ordesa Canyon starting from Cauterets and walking west to Bielsa. The 2 weeks on te GR11 from Setcases to the coast at Llanca. This is the route up the Marcadau valley in France.

On the way to Italy we travelled around some parts of the Pyrenees including Gavarnie and it's famous cirque where I walked earlier in the year and also Cauterets, Lac de Gaube and views of the north face of Vignemale on the border between France and Spain. We took the camper up the Tourmalet pass and saw the cyclist struggling up the steep incline. The weather was cooler at altitude in September and we did have rain in the mountains so left for warmer climes in Italy.

Here is another sunset, this time at Paestum ( Poseidoniain) Southern Italy, where we stayed for several days in October (2008) on a beach with great weather and lots of cycling in the area.

Well there has been a long interval since our last posting. We're still in Dorset and over the last few months have been busy sorting the house and gardens out. We have managed some travelling with a two month trip to France and Italy in the summer 2008, a trip touring southern India for 2 months earlier this year (February to the end of March) and 5 days walking along the South West Way from Minehead to Barnstaple in Somerset.

November 25 th 2007. This is us with our new camper (Tribute) on route from picking it up from Geoff Cox near Denby. All the power for the hills compared with "Blossom" our old kombie and lots of additional comforts such a toilet and shower, central heating!, swivel seats, big fridge, cooker and even a deep freeze. Hot water also available and still a van. We look forward to lots of tours and camping in UK and Europe and then who knows?

Before leaving the Southern Uplands and Gala I had to walk a route over the three Eildon hills near Melrose and visible from miles away when approaching the uplands. Although they’re not an amazing height, they rise from near to sea level and give excellent views of the hills and terrain around Melrose and Galashiels. There are three hills. I started from Melrose, climbed the middle hill first, the highest of the three, then the other two with a pleasant walk through the Beech woods as well. This was before the first major winds of autumn and so the trees were very colourful.

October 2007. Loch Skeen, White Coomb and Cerrifran Gans loop. I started this from the ranger hut near Gray Mare’s Tails, the waterfall from Loch Skeen. The path starts up following Tail Burn keeping to the right of the burn to reach a good view point of the falls. After this the ascent is more gradual eventually levelling out to reach the hanging valley containing Loch Skeen.

Ferral goats on route to Loch Skeen

The Loch appears quite suddenly and gives great views of the hills surrounding the loch and also the peak of White Coomb to the west (821 m). From the mouth of the Loch I crossed the stream and headed up the western hill on the side of the loch and then, in a large loop, approached the summit of White Coomb.

View of Loch Skeen and western hill to be climbed.

The weather was fine and gave good views across the Moffat valley. After this, the route goes down a little and became very windy before climbing up to the peak of Cerrifran Gans. The climb down is very steep, mostly following the wall or fence, but a walking pole came in useful at times. There is no real path after gaining Loch Skeen and so I mostly followed the contours and chose a route to avoid the peat and marshy areas. The descent route from Cerrifran Gans follows the ridge down and a footpath is discernible. The only downside to this route is the walk back along the road to the car park at the ranger hut. I chose a clear day and got great views of Hartland Fell and the surrounding hills but even though it was a calm day at the ranger hut, the wind after the summit was very strong and cold.

Summit of White Coomb

Picture from near the top of Neptune's Staircase
October 3, 2007. We've been away on one of the long distance walks, The Great Glen Way, GGW, in scotland going between Fort William in the west and Inverness in the east, transversing Scotland along the Glen alongside the Calidonian canal and Lochs. The walk took us 5 days of continual walking to get to Drumnadrochit covering 73 miles, which is averaging 14 miles each day including all the additional bits that made up the day.The weather wasn't bad including some sunshine and drizzle but only heavy rain at night when we were tucked away in an hostel or B&B. No problems with midges either or the route (the signing was very good and hardly needed a map but nice to see our position and the names of the lochs and nearby summits). We didn't get a clear view of the summit of Ben Nevis but took several photos at different angles as we left Fort William and disappearing from view on the second day passed Laggan.We enjoyed the walk and met others on route, either walking or at the hostels or B&B. The route is not difficult and there are a couple of long sections that can be split up. The hills on route are small and didn't present problems.The weather was changeable with sun followed by rain and sometimes some wind but I think we were lucky not to have had heavy rain whilst we were walking. If we'd left it a week later we'd have had sunshine for the 5 days!!. You do need to carry cash as the B&B only take cash or cheques. Way-marking is excellent and you'd really need to try hard to get lost !

Picture of the canal at Gairlochy

Day 1. We had travelled by coach to Fort William the previous day going via Edinburgh and Glasgow. We set off from the Calluna Hostel in light rain, but it soon cleared as we found the end of the canal. Most of the day we were on a vehicle track (good pista in Spain) alongside the canal to pass Neptune's staircase (8 locks) and Moy swing bridge to reach Gairlochy by the evening. Stayed at "Dalcomera" B&B just off the canal and it was very nice with a possibility of views of Ben Nevis at breakfast (NGR 17661 84010). In the evening we went a stroll down to the lighthouse/beacon at the south end of Loch Locky. It is also possible to camp aside the lock as they have toilets and a nice grass area.

Day 2. Some mist but it was a great walk at first near shore of Loch Locky to reach our next destination of Laggan. Later we had light rain and some difficulty as we has intended to find the Great Glen Water Park in South Laggan but it was actually in North Laggan. Anyway, we found the Scottish Youth Hostel (NGR 29403 97175) after a walk through a muddy track in the forest and then along a busy road, but did not get a great welcome and it didn't open until 5 pm. We then went back to Laggan Lock and to the floating pub/restraunt "The Eagle" and arranged to have a seafood dinner there later. This worked out fine with the help of a fisherman with cash as the B&B's don't take debit cards and neither did the barge !

Day 2 along side Loch Lochy and through the woods
Day 3. Continued along the forest track which had much improved to meet Loch Oich. The weather had improved and we saw blue sky as we wandered alongside the loch on a good track, sometimes an old railway track and often reaching the shore of the loch. I took a photo of a abandoned cottage along the track that had a great view of the loch and the island in the centre. After crossing the railway bridge and Cullochy lock, we headed along the north side of the canal to Kytra lock and on to Fort Augustus. The later track was a vehicle track and well maintained but the walk did seem endless with the same scenery for several miles. However, we enjoyed the brambles along side the canal and the track and seeing the well kept locks with their cottages. It was a relief to be in Fort Augustus and have a meal at the "Bothy" near the centre. Our accomodation "Thistle Pubh" was on the GGW as we walked out of town, very convenient (NGR 37674 09865) and pleasant. We shared breakfast with an American lad who started at the same time as ourselves and we'd seen several times but not had a chance to chat; he was enjoying the experience and seemed to like the changeable weather.

Mushrooms seen in the forest but not eaten !
Day 4. This was to be a short day to Invermoriston along a forest track. The track at the end seemed long and pointless as a short cut through the woodland would have taken us to our destination without the long loop around the valley. Even a short-cut before the path veared south west was closed, and we had to keep to the cycle path. Invermoriston itself was very pleasant with a spot of sunshine for our picnic lunch on the village green aside the shetland cattle. Spoke to our fellow walkers, the young american and the french couple who had been camping. The B&B was pleasant (NH 42192 16739) at Mr and Mrs Gregg's. We shared breakfast with a couple of German girls also hiking and having seen on previous days. They intended to get a bus for part of the next day as their packs were heavy (18 kg). We had a great meal at the hotel in town. There is also an excellent little shop that sells sandwiches, pizzas, tea and coffee and other supplies but there is no ATM machine.

Day 5. The start from Invermoriston was different as we climbed up above Loch Ness and got good views to the south. We did a slight detour to get a view from a stone seat (NH 42913 16961) at 204 m, of Loch Ness towards Fort Augustus. Further along we reached the highest point so far at 292 m (NH 47126 21243). After that we were on a path (not a track) that was a pleasant change with lots of places suitable to camp with water. We eventually came out near Balbeg and had lunch in the sunshine looking through the silver birch to the loch but had to move on as a shower descended. After that, the GGW followed a minor road, sometimes on the road and others on a path alongside the road. I'm sure this could be avoided as most walkers, including ourselves, detest walking on tarmac especially with such grand country all around. We found the Back Packers in Drumnadrochit (NH 51291 29225) and as it was raining, stayed in for a while before making some pasta meal and walking to see Urquhart castle on the side of the loch. This was about 1.5 miles from the hostel and by 7.30 pm was all lit up. We were the only visitors so nice to see but getting cool. The next morning, Helen fell from her top bunk bed in the hostel and we had to abandon the rest of the walk; after a rest she was mobile again and saw a doctor and then left to get the bus to Inverness and then to Tain. She's much better now but sore with the bruising so it will take a week nor so to get back to normal. Hopefully we'll finish the last 18 miles in the future.

This is a view of the harbour at Cadaques on route to the most easterly point of Spain, Cap Creus (where the Gr11 ends). We spent a week in the Cost Brava starting on Roses and a few days in Empuriabrava and ending with a night in Girona before flying out to Newcastle. The weather was a little mixed with a days rain but otherwise it was fine with some hot days. We had opportunities to get into the pyrenees and also spend a few days at the coast and the nature reserve near Empuriabrava (Park Natural dels Aiguamolls) where we saw Egrets and White Storks nesting near the water, and a bee eater! The area was busy being the peak season with lots of French and other European tourists. However, a few kilometres out and away from the coast, the roads were very quiet. We visited Olot and had a brief visit into France, and I got a brief view of Mt. Carnou in the eastern pyrenees.

Great adventure in the pyrenees walking from Somport through to the Ordessa Canyon. This is a view of one of the high peaks in the pyrenees taken from the GR11 (Vignamale). My first view from the pass was better but the summit was covered with cloud. In this picture you can see the ancient glacier, appearing a grey colour, on the side. The mountains in this area are stunning together with all the lakes. The walking is difficult because of the gradients, lengths and also the snowfields. I had to use my "spiders"across the snow because of the angle of the route.

I had one very wet day but had a companion, Martin Walsh, for that day and we got soaked because of the rain and the river crossings. I spent the day in the Hotel Balaitus in Gallent drying my rucksack, tent and sleeping bag.

Reached the Refugio de Respomuso at 2,200 m and enjoyed meeting others hiking and climbing in the area. Looked at the next days climb and was surprised to see the incline and amount of snow on the Collado de Tebarray (the pass of the next day). Joined up with a spanish couple the next day and enjoyed the climb and great scenery from the pass and the lakes down to the valley. Panticosa itself was a building site but the Refugio was very nice and I ate well needed dinner and wine at the end of the day. Tebarray is the second highest pass on the GR11 at 2782 m and I wouldn't have tried it alone because of the snow/ice and lack of crampons.

Then several good days with varied scenery in the valleys, lakes and high passes seeing deer, marmots and lots of new flowers. Also, because of the previous rains and snow melt, the rivers were swollen and difficult to cross without removing boots, so this slowed down progress.

The Ordessa canyon and Torla were pretty and there were quite a few tourists around but the campsites were not as busy as I imagine they must get later in the year. It was still a novelty passing people on the GR11 !! Also chances to eat wild cherries and strawberries. So that's the GR11 until next time!!

On Thursday I'm off to continue my walk along the GR11 starting at Candanchu and ending on the coast at Cabo de Creus, the most easterly point on the Spanish mainland. This will take about 6 weeks and then Helen comes out to Empuriabrava (northern Costa Brava) for a weeks rest by the sea. Also Bex will join me in July for a weeks trek on the GR11 from Puigcerda to Setcases passing through the highest point on the route, so that is something to look forward to. I intend to do a combination of camping, refuges and hostels on route and I expect the first three weeks will be most difficult in terms of the gradients but hopefully there will be less snow on the high passes than there was in 2004. I should get to Cabo de Creus by the end of July.
The photo is the first section I will do and was taken in June 2004 when it was the last section I did before reaching Sallent de Gallego.

Had a trip to Snowdonia staying at a nice hostel near Pony Pant. We had a bad weather forcast but had already decided to go ahead with a climb up Snowdon on the "Watkin Path" and down on the "Miner's Track". In the event, the weather was worse than predicted with rain and high winds but we (Bex and myself) did get a good view of the mountains below the cloud. The route up was good until about Bwich y Saethau when we entered the cloud and the path became vague, steep and loose. There appeared to be several routes and we couldn't see the summit or marker standing-stone at the top and there were few cairns to indicate a route. We chose as best we could and continued upwards to the ridge close to the summit. On the ridge we checked our compasses again but decided that the GPS was correct and to head up to the summit to the west. Here we met two men who we'd seen in the distance on the way up; further on we experienced a chilly gale at the top. We both climbed to the Trig station on the summit and had to hold-on in order to stand, such was the wind at that time. We quickly took the route along the ridge past the railway station (not in use because of building works) and shortly found some shelter behind a rock to have lunch (including hot tea !) and get warmer underlayers on. After that, it was OK with the rain stopped and we soon reached a clear sky (see photo) with Glaslyn in view. A standing stone on the ridge marked the Pyg and Miner's tracks down, steeply at first but on solid rock tracks (different from the path I remember from about 40 years ago). Eventually the "Miner's track" and "Pyg" part at another standing stone and we dropped down to the lakes to follow a "stone road" around the lakes and across the concourse. The old "Miner's track" was visible in places.

When we reached the road, we both felt fine and up for a walk along the valley's edge and back around to the start of the Watkin's Path. This was a great walk, a little wind in places but no serious rain. The path crossed a stream which we had to ford but otherwise, apart from area of bog (i.e. wet feet!), the path was reasonable to follow through pastures and woodlands but needed navigation as there were very few footpath signs. We got back about 6.30 having started around 10.15 am and covered over 20 km (GPS was on and said 19.7 km but there was no signal in the lower woods at the start).

We went for a beer and a welcomed dinner at the hostel and had the place to ourselves for the rest of the evening. Bex is teaching me about wild foods, their identification etc, so education as well which will come in handy for my trek in the pyrenees starting next month.

On the Saturday the weather predication was worse and so we decided to stay lower and explore the local area. In the event, we found a nice lake in the hills in pleasant woodlands and had our sandwiches in the wet at the head of a lake. We picked a few plants to taste for dinner and I learned about nettle cordage, but I need to practice this more, although I have the basic technique. I liked the Wood Sorrel lemonade that Bex made but she didn't.

Next will be Ben Nevis if we can persuade the others to join ! We marvelled at the group we met in the car park who were doing the three peaks race (Ben Nevis, Scafell and Snowdon in 24 h) starting up Snowdon on the "Miner's track" at about 4 pm.

Just completed a 80 km walk to the coast from Galashiels along the Southern Upland Way over a period of two days.

This is the first view of the North sea from the Penmanshiel Woodland, and as you can see the weather behaved giving clear views all the way, even from the highest points (about 460 m). The highlights were through the ancient woodlands, high moors and the coastal section near the end. The finish of the route is at Cockburnspath where helen met me at the end of the walk. I had one nights camping and woke to a frost and an early start. This is my first walking with a full pack since Fish River canyon and I felt the weight, so that means much more training before the GR11 in June !! However, the distances covered each day were longer than I expect in the pyrenees but the height differences perhaps less.

We're enjoying life here in Gala and the open spaces. We've even managed some gardening and have some Rundu type camping chairs to enjoy our patch of garden.

Now settled in Galashiels in the Scottish Borders. We have rented a flat not far from Emily and Helen on Magdala Terrace, only a stone throw apart so we can easily pop in for coffee. So far things have gone OK with the usual problems of telephone connections and boilers not working, but the weather has been great with temperatures 10 degrees above the seasonal average.

We are on the outskirts of town overlooking Meigle Hill to the south and have already got to know the area and town, sorted the small garden and made the flat a bit personal with our things.

Yesterday, Saturday, we went on a longish walk starting at Newtown St Boswell along the St Cuthbert's way to Bowden and then over th Eildon Hills to Melrose for coffee. We did a different route back around north hill and then through the woods to a lane leading to a track to Newtown. Nice because of the rolling hills, lots of primroses and warm temperatures although the mist on higher ground reduced long range visibility. I'm sure this will be the first of many walks in the area.

We plan to leave about the 15 June, me to trek the rest of the pyrenees from St Gallent to the coast and meet up with Bex on route and Helen at the end for a weeks rest on the Costa Brave before flying home. Meanwhile Helen is going to Poland and other eastern european countries backpacking with Katy for 6 weeks whilst I'm in the mountains. Then it's back to our flat here until about the 10 October and the end of the 6 months rental. We plan to go off then to Asia but have a lot of planning to do before that.

Meanwhile, we have plans to meet up with Bex and Tony and do some walking in Northern Wales and trips to parents to help out.

We did meet up with Margaret, Doug and Dot in Edinburgh for a meal and hopefully will see them over the coming months whilst in Scotland. They are all well and extremely busy with activities.

Here's a picture of the North Hill Eildon on our walk yesterday. Also on route I picked up a copy of "Forever Free" by Joy Adamson from the book shop in Melrose and into that at the moment. Really interesting as I can relate to the places, as we visited her house and the Serengeti, were the cubs were eventually, released on our travels.

Now in Exeter staying at Bex and Tony's flat whilst they are in Equador doing some surfing and hiking. Managing to get a bit fitter with some great walks in the area and exploring city life in Exeter. We have sold the Kombie, so that was sad but I think it has gone to a good home; the buyer looked the part with a pony tail anyway and seemed very keen.

The picture is on Dartmoor, one of the higher "peaks" (547 m !!) but great views all around. These are the standing stones on route, with an ancient grave at one end. Further on there was a stone circle to the west end of Cosdon Beacon.

Didn't really finish off the SA trip report, but so much to write. We ended in Cape Town in a BP in Long Street and did the usual thing, Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch Gardens and Robin Island.

This is the Devon coast near Hern Point rocks and Landram Bay on a mild February day. This was the last section of the south west coast path up to Exeter, so now completed from Bournemouth to Exeter and heading next down the River Exe estuary as the ferry across does not run in the winter.

There is a nice circular route from Budleigh Salterton, along the coast to Sidmouth and then back but going inland before the "High Peak" to Otterton and then southerly down the Otter on the west bank to Budleigh, about 17 km in all. A nice pub in Otterton and also a Mill to look around.

We haven't decided on our next trip yet and lots of research to do before then but will update as our plans take form and meanwhile, lots of things to do here !!

This is Helen resting on "Leopard Rock" overlooking the Oribi Gorge. There is a great cafe there and lots of birds in the gardens; we saw a pin-tailed Wydah and some Weavers nesting.
Weavers at their nest at Leopard Rock.
After Coffee Bay we reached East London in the rain and decided to stay dry in a BP in the town. Very quiet and a little dismal with unfriendly staff giving us the impression the place had seen better days. So with the tent dried in our room, we moved off to Jeffrey's Bay, or J-Bay as it is known. We originally sought camping as the weather had improved but got offered a BP "Misty Cove" (13 th November) and double room with en-suite for the same price (40R ppn) so stayed for a couple of days. This is South Africa's big surf beach and although it was the quiet season, the place was full of surf shops etc. The beach was long and windy, but only a few surfers around. We did catchup on the cinema with a personal showing of "My ex-girlfriend" and shopping put into their fridge!! We found a great restaurent "The Wallklipper" further south along the beach from J-Bay, lots of seafood options so Helen was in her element of course.

We then travelled down to the coast around Shephed and a day in "The Eland Game Reserve" in Orbi Gorge. This was fun with the car on a gravel track that had been washed-out in places and under repair; we saw more animals, walked a suspension bridge and generally enjoyed the scenery. On the route back to the "Beach" BP, we stopped at Leopard's Rock to take some photos of us sitting overhanging the gorge and watched the weaver birds building nests.
Onwards through the Transkei to the "Wild Coast". At first we were going to give this a miss, but saw that the road was fine and the area completely different from elsewhere in the SA we seen so far. Lots of villagers along the long windy road and shortage of unleaded petrol in the service stations. It felt as if we were back in Rundu in the small towns on route and in complete contrast to Nelspruit and the small towns around there. It was a puzzle what the people did for a living as there was a lack of agriculture (maybe the time of year), although some of the soils looked good. Maybe a lot on pensions, but little sign of any activity really. We reached Port St Johns and camped overlooking the sea. Did a short walk to a blow-hole, climbing down with the aid of a wire rope, but got some good shots. After that, we decided to go onto "Coffee Bay" for a couple of days as this had been recommended by a group of South Africans that we had met at the BP at Port St John. The BP at Coffee Bay was very nice and also busy. Unfortunately we got our tent burnt with a spark on the first night and so moved to another camp site on the other side of the river for the second night when it rained, luckily I had a repair for the tent that sealed it OK. Did a walk along the coast to "Hole-in-the -Wall" with a local guide. It was fine when we set off, but it soon became wet and windy. The guide didn't seem bothered but we got soaked. It cleared up by the end of the walk for our picnic on the beach. However, with thunder clouds around we made for the gravel road in the hope of getting a hike back. That worked out OK in the end but a little uncertain about the quality of the kombies brakes on the hills.

Hello, we're now back in England with the rain and winds. We've had lots of adventures on route and no time to update the BLOG so you can guess it has been fun.
We did go to Mozambique, hiring a car in Nelspruit and driving straight to Maputo, the capital. Quite a shock as we had to dry through the city centre to reach the only road north going up the coast. The city appeared run-down with poor roads, traffic congestion and many traffic lights not working. We did try a road in the northerly direction along the coast but this petered out to a sand track, so a Nissan Almeria was not the ideal car for this. Then headed north to Tofu on the tarred coastal road and this was a long journey on some pot-holed roads and also temporary roads of sand and gravel. It took most of the day and the backpackers we had chosen was inaccessible without 4-WD so ended up at Fatima's Nest next to Tofu beach. Yes, the beach was magnificent, very quiet and blue sea and white sand for miles. We then found out the road further north was also a pain to drive and averaging 20 km/h so we decided to stay put and then return to S.A. To enjoy Mozambique you really need 4 WD as the tar roads north of Maputo are limited (coastal road) and so it is necessary to travel to and fro on the same road. The border crossings, even with the car were really easy and didn't take long as we had a visa already.
By 5 November, we were back in Nelspruit at the "Funky Monkey" BP that had been recommended by Bex. By coincidence a group of new Peace Corp volunteers were meeting there and partying so it was fun to hear of their experiences in Education in S.A. A lot sounded familiar and not so different from Namibia.
On the road again and this time actually travelling south towards our eventual destination of Cape Town. We had a great drive through the interior to the Drakensburg Mountains with the idea of camping and doing some gentle walking in the mountains. On route it had changed from sunshine to a cold dreary day so we were a little apprehensive about camping. However, we got ourselves some braii wood and made camp in the KZN Wildlife camp at Monk's Cowl. The next day it started cloudy but soon cleared to a brilliant day and ideal for walking. We went to Sterkspruit Falls and then on the Hlatikhulu Forest walk that took the rest of the day. We'll remember this as we passed some many different plants, many flowering and a variety of birds that were new to us including a black head oriole, red collared widow and double collared sunbird feeding on the nectar. I would have liked to stay longer and explore the area but again time was limited and so much to see. (to be continued).