A day visit to Malham Cove in Yorkshire

On a recent visit to see Emily in Lancaster, we took the opportunity to go over to Settle and Malham in the Yorkshire Dales, about an hours drive from Lancaster or a beautiful days cycle ride (it is on the Dales Highway, Dales Cycleway and also the Pennine Way). Near to Malham is Malham Cove set in a limestone hillside and also a high level tarn within walking distance of the village. I'd known of the tarn since I joined the Freshwater Biological Association (FBA) in the late 70's as they had a field station (now a Field Studies Centre) used to study the chemistry and ecology of the tarn. I've never been to Malham but Emily had as part of her walk on the Pennine Way. The plan was to call in at Settle and then drive the short distance to Malham village and then walk to the cove and limestone pavement before heading further north to the tarn, returning to the pavement and then on a different route to descend back to the village for a meal. We were lucky to have a calm and brilliant summer's day for the walk with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery.

The region around Malham is limestone rock and the cove was carved by a 80 m height waterfall  from glacial melt, about 12,000 years ago, wearing a crescent in the limestone leaving a limestone pavement at the top of the waterfall. The waterfall as long since disappeared and only falls in exceptional weather, e.g. in December 2015 it did flow for a while.

Malham Cove with a drystone wall in the foreground. This was taken after descending from the limestone pavement on the way back to Malham village. The pavement is at the top of the near vertical section of the wall. The massive rises further behind the pavement.

We did get a glimpse of the cove as we approached the village but on our walking route, didn't see the limestone face until close to the top with a better view of the whole face as we walked back to the village.

The path through the woods to Janet's Foss

We took the footpath going north-east on a river-side path to woodland and Janet's Foss (Janet's Waterfall) passing a field barn and old rusty swaft-turner, much like the ones we used when I was a youngster.  

Janet's Foss in the dappled shade on our way to the limestone pavement.

The path then left the woodland into open grassland with sheep grazing on the hillside and a ice-cream van at a road bridge. We continued through the pasture, gaining height to walk at the rim of the cove, about 320 m elevation. 

Approaching the limestone wall from the east side we got good views across the cove. The descent path was clear see in the distance.

Helen and Emily on the limestone pavement formed by the erosive action of water on limestone. The fissures make a micro-environment for many plants. The limestone to the north of the plateau continues to rise to a peak of just over 400 m.

Some "Mother of Thyme" in the upland 

We explored the fissured slabs, stepping easily from slab to slab to reach the cliff edge giving views of the crescent rock face and down the river valley to Malham village. After this we made our way to the tarn through Ing Scar (a scar is a ravine), a dried river bed. This started flat and grassy but soon became a narrow rocky path that ascended steeply to a stile and then turned abruptly right to pass towards the tarn.

A view backwards (southerly) though Ing Scar

Helen on the windy path to reach flatter ground.

The tarn itself was a bit of a surprise for me as we didn't get a view until we were almost on it and also I imagined it at a lower elevation and not quite so large. The Field Studies Centre was clear to see on the other side of the tarn.

The cress choked stream outflow from the tarn.

A view across the tarn to the Study Centre, a pleasant spot to rest before the return down hill. 

We returned to the limestone pavement, crossing it from the east to find the path down to the base of the cliff. Here we could see a stream that we followed to see the source, the bottom of the cliff. Apparently this stream is not the one we saw disappear near the outlet from the tarn but is from a different source but passing through the limestone in the same way. I also noticed it was a soft-water, brown in colour from the organic acids from peat. 

There were some climbers on the face; they are allowed to ascend certain routes away from the nesting Peregrine Falcons. We had spotted some Peregrines when we were at the ledge and could still seem them near the cliff top.

The stream emerging from beneath the cliff

The return to the village was straight forward on a well made path following the stream to get a meal by the river side and short drive back.

Kew Gardens, a weekend visit in May 2019

One of the things we've be thinking of doing since our return from Namibia is to visit Kew Gardens in London. Somehow over the intervening years it was delayed or forgotten about until this year. What better time to go than in Spring with the azaleas and rhododendrons and also the art works of Dale Chihuly that are incorporated through the gardens and add an extra dimension to the landscape at this time.

We went to London by train passing through Exeter to Reading and there changing train to get to Richmond which is a stones-throw from Kew Gardens and easily reached by bus or tube. We stayed at the Dukes Head Inn, about a twenty minute walk from the train station and less into the centre of Richmond by the Vineyard Passage to George Street and then to Kew by the number 65 bus that goes to the main Victoria Gate of the gardens in the direction of Ealing Broadway (about ten minutes ride).

On arrival in Richmond we did have time to eat and explore the main centre and a fair on Richmond Green nearby. We also took a walk along the waterfront where you can hire cycles to follow the riverside path towards Hampton Court, or take a boat trip on the Thames; there are several options advertised on the wharfe. It is also a popular spot to eat outside with a fine view across the river.

A view of the wharfe and Richmond Bridge over the River Thames.  A moment watching the boat men doing hull repairs ready for the summer season.

In the morning after a full English Breakfast (very pleasant hosts and accomodation) we left the Inn and made our way to Victoria gate for opening at ten o'clock and although there was a queue, it soon dissipated when the gates opened. I think it does speed things up if you already have a ticket via the internet. Our first sight was a little unreal as we spotted one of the Chihuly exhibits, a blue-spiked globe in the distance.

The artwork "Sapphire Star" set in a wooded meadow seen on entering through Victoria Gate inthe gardens.

Looking across the lake to the Palm House and one of the glass sculptures, "Summer Sun" standing on the lake edge. 

We chose to take a walking route, first towards "The Orangery" passing "The Great Broad Walk Gardens"and "The Beehive". We spent some time in the Palm House an amazing Victorian structure (built in 1840's but completely rebuilt in 1980's).
The main herbaceous border was spectacular with waves of plants in bloom. I was so taken with the different displays, that I forgot to take photos of the main section. Some of the plants we recognised, but others were new to us giving us some ideas for our new garden at home. Although we'd seen the border on TV (e.g. "Gardens World") it was quite an experience to see the scale of the planting in person. There are lots of smaller paths around the "Beehive" worth exploring to get different views of the garden.

"The Beehive" designed by artist Wolfgang Buttress in 2015 now housed at Kew in the wildflower meadow with the tulip beds in front.

 

Part of the orchid display in the Princess of Wales Conservatory, this giant Sloth made of  bromelaids celebrates the animals of Columbia 

One of the features of Kew is that most of the plants including the trees are labelled. In every direction you look there are different trees of various ages. One that caught my eye was the "Lucombe Oak" a hybrid of Turkey and Cork oak found in 1762 by William Lucombe, the tree in Kew being a clone of the original.

A Lucombe Oak protected in the garden, one of the many large trees in the gardens

We took lunch in the Orangery and then meandered around the gardens making our way to the river and back by the Rhododendron Dell and the main lake. Lots of evidence of the Canadian geese as we approached the river!

View down the lake on our return from the river.

Rhododendron Dell with lots of colour and some scents with the azaleas.

Neodymium Reeds and Turquoise Marlins near King William's Temple.

There are lots of sculpture exhibits as you walk around the gardens. As they aren't located on the garden map, each come as a surprise; I expect we missed some!

We've just planted our solo Wisteria at home, nothing on this scale though!

We covered most of the garden in a full day with stops for refreshments and drinks. The weather was sunny and very pleasant and of course this makes a difference anywhere. I haven't shown all the glass sculptures but they are all remarkable and worth seeing as they compliment the gardens and sometimes make a focus. How they transported them from America is hard to imagine!

The plants are amazing in diversity and the glass houses allow quite different environments to grow from arid, alpine to tropical jungles, and I think having this all in one place brings home to you the rich diversity and complexity of life including all the different trees that have adapted to situations around the world, something to be highly valued.

We spent the evening and next morning around Richmond at the river for lunch and then home by the same rail route without delays.