I’ve been walking along the
South West Coastal Path starting in Plymouth and ending in East Prawle to the
east of Salcombe. This time Bex joined me. Although the weather forecast had
not been good with sun and showers, in the event we had two sunny days with
only one hail shower lasting 30 minutes but enough to make us change into our
wet gear.
This section has several river
crossings, the first at Plymouth from the Citadel across the Sound to Mount
Batten, the second over the river Yealm east of Wembury. The next crossing over
the river Erme had to be timed with low tide as there is no ferry service so it
was boots off for a wade. After that, the next crossing is over the river Avon
to Bantham but the ferry service doesn’t start until 30
th April (we
had looked it up in the SW Coast book and it said 1
st April), so a
surprise for us. The walk around the river is several miles and would have
spoilt our plans to finish near Salcombe so we sort a taxi. The farmer who runs
the campsite near the ferry board helped and we got a lift in a van (diverting
on route to pick up a tractor mower !!) but it worked out OK in the end. The
final crossing was from Salcombe to East Portlemouth; we reached there just
before 5 pm with the last ferry at 6.
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Looking west over Ayrmer Cove near where we camped |
This is a fantastic bit of the
coastline with some severe sections in terms of gradients or should I say a
succession of gradients. In total it was about 45 miles and so made for long
days of walking. The logistics meant we had to cross the Erme estuary at the
end of the first day as low tide was near 5 pm. The nearest pub from there is
at Ringmore but with several steep gradients between. In fact we reached the
pub “The Travellers End” at about 7 ready (having taken the 8.45 ferry at
Plymouth) for an evening meal and a very welcome pint. We decided to freedom
camp near Ayrmer Cove within earshot of the breaking waves and awoke to a covering
of frost on our tents but little wind and no rain in the night. The next day
was a little cooler with a NE wind but sunny, making a great walk to Hope and
on to Bolt Tail and Head, a spectacular coastline. “Sharp Tor”, an outcrop
before Salcombe, is a particularly wild spot giving great views of the coast in
both directions. After that it was through woods and a long drag along the road
to Salcombe and the ferry. We had a cottage in East Prawle for the weekend so
we walked across country to East Prawle for a relaxing break. We did a couple
of walks at the weekend with Tony and Emily to Prawle Point eastwards to
Lannacombe Bay (where Kate Bush has a house overlooking the coastline, a lovely
spot) and saw many birds including two Cirl Buntings, lots of Wrens and also on
one of the many lanes that thread the countryside around these parts, a fairly
long Adder snake. I haven’t time to mention all the flowers and butterflies we
found along the coast and country lanes (even if I could remember them all) but
I will recommend a wild salad that “we” collected on our strolls that made a
great mixture (preparation of nettles needs more practice..!!) to accompany our
dinner.
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Bex climbing upto "Sharp Torr" after Bolt Head with coconut smell of gorse all around |
Now I have only five days walking
left to complete the coastal path, that’s from Exeter to Salcombe although I
have already walked several bits of this, it will be nice to connect it
together.
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View looking over Salcombe from East Portlemouth as we walked to East Prawle in the evening. |