November 25 th 2007. This is us with our new camper (Tribute) on route from picking it up from Geoff Cox near Denby. All the power for the hills compared with "Blossom" our old kombie and lots of additional comforts such a toilet and shower, central heating!, swivel seats, big fridge, cooker and even a deep freeze. Hot water also available and still a van. We look forward to lots of tours and camping in UK and Europe and then who knows?

Before leaving the Southern Uplands and Gala I had to walk a route over the three Eildon hills near Melrose and visible from miles away when approaching the uplands. Although they’re not an amazing height, they rise from near to sea level and give excellent views of the hills and terrain around Melrose and Galashiels. There are three hills. I started from Melrose, climbed the middle hill first, the highest of the three, then the other two with a pleasant walk through the Beech woods as well. This was before the first major winds of autumn and so the trees were very colourful.

October 2007. Loch Skeen, White Coomb and Cerrifran Gans loop. I started this from the ranger hut near Gray Mare’s Tails, the waterfall from Loch Skeen. The path starts up following Tail Burn keeping to the right of the burn to reach a good view point of the falls. After this the ascent is more gradual eventually levelling out to reach the hanging valley containing Loch Skeen.

Ferral goats on route to Loch Skeen

The Loch appears quite suddenly and gives great views of the hills surrounding the loch and also the peak of White Coomb to the west (821 m). From the mouth of the Loch I crossed the stream and headed up the western hill on the side of the loch and then, in a large loop, approached the summit of White Coomb.

View of Loch Skeen and western hill to be climbed.

The weather was fine and gave good views across the Moffat valley. After this, the route goes down a little and became very windy before climbing up to the peak of Cerrifran Gans. The climb down is very steep, mostly following the wall or fence, but a walking pole came in useful at times. There is no real path after gaining Loch Skeen and so I mostly followed the contours and chose a route to avoid the peat and marshy areas. The descent route from Cerrifran Gans follows the ridge down and a footpath is discernible. The only downside to this route is the walk back along the road to the car park at the ranger hut. I chose a clear day and got great views of Hartland Fell and the surrounding hills but even though it was a calm day at the ranger hut, the wind after the summit was very strong and cold.

Summit of White Coomb

Picture from near the top of Neptune's Staircase
October 3, 2007. We've been away on one of the long distance walks, The Great Glen Way, GGW, in scotland going between Fort William in the west and Inverness in the east, transversing Scotland along the Glen alongside the Calidonian canal and Lochs. The walk took us 5 days of continual walking to get to Drumnadrochit covering 73 miles, which is averaging 14 miles each day including all the additional bits that made up the day.The weather wasn't bad including some sunshine and drizzle but only heavy rain at night when we were tucked away in an hostel or B&B. No problems with midges either or the route (the signing was very good and hardly needed a map but nice to see our position and the names of the lochs and nearby summits). We didn't get a clear view of the summit of Ben Nevis but took several photos at different angles as we left Fort William and disappearing from view on the second day passed Laggan.We enjoyed the walk and met others on route, either walking or at the hostels or B&B. The route is not difficult and there are a couple of long sections that can be split up. The hills on route are small and didn't present problems.The weather was changeable with sun followed by rain and sometimes some wind but I think we were lucky not to have had heavy rain whilst we were walking. If we'd left it a week later we'd have had sunshine for the 5 days!!. You do need to carry cash as the B&B only take cash or cheques. Way-marking is excellent and you'd really need to try hard to get lost !

Picture of the canal at Gairlochy

Day 1. We had travelled by coach to Fort William the previous day going via Edinburgh and Glasgow. We set off from the Calluna Hostel in light rain, but it soon cleared as we found the end of the canal. Most of the day we were on a vehicle track (good pista in Spain) alongside the canal to pass Neptune's staircase (8 locks) and Moy swing bridge to reach Gairlochy by the evening. Stayed at "Dalcomera" B&B just off the canal and it was very nice with a possibility of views of Ben Nevis at breakfast (NGR 17661 84010). In the evening we went a stroll down to the lighthouse/beacon at the south end of Loch Locky. It is also possible to camp aside the lock as they have toilets and a nice grass area.

Day 2. Some mist but it was a great walk at first near shore of Loch Locky to reach our next destination of Laggan. Later we had light rain and some difficulty as we has intended to find the Great Glen Water Park in South Laggan but it was actually in North Laggan. Anyway, we found the Scottish Youth Hostel (NGR 29403 97175) after a walk through a muddy track in the forest and then along a busy road, but did not get a great welcome and it didn't open until 5 pm. We then went back to Laggan Lock and to the floating pub/restraunt "The Eagle" and arranged to have a seafood dinner there later. This worked out fine with the help of a fisherman with cash as the B&B's don't take debit cards and neither did the barge !

Day 2 along side Loch Lochy and through the woods
Day 3. Continued along the forest track which had much improved to meet Loch Oich. The weather had improved and we saw blue sky as we wandered alongside the loch on a good track, sometimes an old railway track and often reaching the shore of the loch. I took a photo of a abandoned cottage along the track that had a great view of the loch and the island in the centre. After crossing the railway bridge and Cullochy lock, we headed along the north side of the canal to Kytra lock and on to Fort Augustus. The later track was a vehicle track and well maintained but the walk did seem endless with the same scenery for several miles. However, we enjoyed the brambles along side the canal and the track and seeing the well kept locks with their cottages. It was a relief to be in Fort Augustus and have a meal at the "Bothy" near the centre. Our accomodation "Thistle Pubh" was on the GGW as we walked out of town, very convenient (NGR 37674 09865) and pleasant. We shared breakfast with an American lad who started at the same time as ourselves and we'd seen several times but not had a chance to chat; he was enjoying the experience and seemed to like the changeable weather.

Mushrooms seen in the forest but not eaten !
Day 4. This was to be a short day to Invermoriston along a forest track. The track at the end seemed long and pointless as a short cut through the woodland would have taken us to our destination without the long loop around the valley. Even a short-cut before the path veared south west was closed, and we had to keep to the cycle path. Invermoriston itself was very pleasant with a spot of sunshine for our picnic lunch on the village green aside the shetland cattle. Spoke to our fellow walkers, the young american and the french couple who had been camping. The B&B was pleasant (NH 42192 16739) at Mr and Mrs Gregg's. We shared breakfast with a couple of German girls also hiking and having seen on previous days. They intended to get a bus for part of the next day as their packs were heavy (18 kg). We had a great meal at the hotel in town. There is also an excellent little shop that sells sandwiches, pizzas, tea and coffee and other supplies but there is no ATM machine.

Day 5. The start from Invermoriston was different as we climbed up above Loch Ness and got good views to the south. We did a slight detour to get a view from a stone seat (NH 42913 16961) at 204 m, of Loch Ness towards Fort Augustus. Further along we reached the highest point so far at 292 m (NH 47126 21243). After that we were on a path (not a track) that was a pleasant change with lots of places suitable to camp with water. We eventually came out near Balbeg and had lunch in the sunshine looking through the silver birch to the loch but had to move on as a shower descended. After that, the GGW followed a minor road, sometimes on the road and others on a path alongside the road. I'm sure this could be avoided as most walkers, including ourselves, detest walking on tarmac especially with such grand country all around. We found the Back Packers in Drumnadrochit (NH 51291 29225) and as it was raining, stayed in for a while before making some pasta meal and walking to see Urquhart castle on the side of the loch. This was about 1.5 miles from the hostel and by 7.30 pm was all lit up. We were the only visitors so nice to see but getting cool. The next morning, Helen fell from her top bunk bed in the hostel and we had to abandon the rest of the walk; after a rest she was mobile again and saw a doctor and then left to get the bus to Inverness and then to Tain. She's much better now but sore with the bruising so it will take a week nor so to get back to normal. Hopefully we'll finish the last 18 miles in the future.

This is a view of the harbour at Cadaques on route to the most easterly point of Spain, Cap Creus (where the Gr11 ends). We spent a week in the Cost Brava starting on Roses and a few days in Empuriabrava and ending with a night in Girona before flying out to Newcastle. The weather was a little mixed with a days rain but otherwise it was fine with some hot days. We had opportunities to get into the pyrenees and also spend a few days at the coast and the nature reserve near Empuriabrava (Park Natural dels Aiguamolls) where we saw Egrets and White Storks nesting near the water, and a bee eater! The area was busy being the peak season with lots of French and other European tourists. However, a few kilometres out and away from the coast, the roads were very quiet. We visited Olot and had a brief visit into France, and I got a brief view of Mt. Carnou in the eastern pyrenees.

Great adventure in the pyrenees walking from Somport through to the Ordessa Canyon. This is a view of one of the high peaks in the pyrenees taken from the GR11 (Vignamale). My first view from the pass was better but the summit was covered with cloud. In this picture you can see the ancient glacier, appearing a grey colour, on the side. The mountains in this area are stunning together with all the lakes. The walking is difficult because of the gradients, lengths and also the snowfields. I had to use my "spiders"across the snow because of the angle of the route.

I had one very wet day but had a companion, Martin Walsh, for that day and we got soaked because of the rain and the river crossings. I spent the day in the Hotel Balaitus in Gallent drying my rucksack, tent and sleeping bag.

Reached the Refugio de Respomuso at 2,200 m and enjoyed meeting others hiking and climbing in the area. Looked at the next days climb and was surprised to see the incline and amount of snow on the Collado de Tebarray (the pass of the next day). Joined up with a spanish couple the next day and enjoyed the climb and great scenery from the pass and the lakes down to the valley. Panticosa itself was a building site but the Refugio was very nice and I ate well needed dinner and wine at the end of the day. Tebarray is the second highest pass on the GR11 at 2782 m and I wouldn't have tried it alone because of the snow/ice and lack of crampons.

Then several good days with varied scenery in the valleys, lakes and high passes seeing deer, marmots and lots of new flowers. Also, because of the previous rains and snow melt, the rivers were swollen and difficult to cross without removing boots, so this slowed down progress.

The Ordessa canyon and Torla were pretty and there were quite a few tourists around but the campsites were not as busy as I imagine they must get later in the year. It was still a novelty passing people on the GR11 !! Also chances to eat wild cherries and strawberries. So that's the GR11 until next time!!

On Thursday I'm off to continue my walk along the GR11 starting at Candanchu and ending on the coast at Cabo de Creus, the most easterly point on the Spanish mainland. This will take about 6 weeks and then Helen comes out to Empuriabrava (northern Costa Brava) for a weeks rest by the sea. Also Bex will join me in July for a weeks trek on the GR11 from Puigcerda to Setcases passing through the highest point on the route, so that is something to look forward to. I intend to do a combination of camping, refuges and hostels on route and I expect the first three weeks will be most difficult in terms of the gradients but hopefully there will be less snow on the high passes than there was in 2004. I should get to Cabo de Creus by the end of July.
The photo is the first section I will do and was taken in June 2004 when it was the last section I did before reaching Sallent de Gallego.

Had a trip to Snowdonia staying at a nice hostel near Pony Pant. We had a bad weather forcast but had already decided to go ahead with a climb up Snowdon on the "Watkin Path" and down on the "Miner's Track". In the event, the weather was worse than predicted with rain and high winds but we (Bex and myself) did get a good view of the mountains below the cloud. The route up was good until about Bwich y Saethau when we entered the cloud and the path became vague, steep and loose. There appeared to be several routes and we couldn't see the summit or marker standing-stone at the top and there were few cairns to indicate a route. We chose as best we could and continued upwards to the ridge close to the summit. On the ridge we checked our compasses again but decided that the GPS was correct and to head up to the summit to the west. Here we met two men who we'd seen in the distance on the way up; further on we experienced a chilly gale at the top. We both climbed to the Trig station on the summit and had to hold-on in order to stand, such was the wind at that time. We quickly took the route along the ridge past the railway station (not in use because of building works) and shortly found some shelter behind a rock to have lunch (including hot tea !) and get warmer underlayers on. After that, it was OK with the rain stopped and we soon reached a clear sky (see photo) with Glaslyn in view. A standing stone on the ridge marked the Pyg and Miner's tracks down, steeply at first but on solid rock tracks (different from the path I remember from about 40 years ago). Eventually the "Miner's track" and "Pyg" part at another standing stone and we dropped down to the lakes to follow a "stone road" around the lakes and across the concourse. The old "Miner's track" was visible in places.

When we reached the road, we both felt fine and up for a walk along the valley's edge and back around to the start of the Watkin's Path. This was a great walk, a little wind in places but no serious rain. The path crossed a stream which we had to ford but otherwise, apart from area of bog (i.e. wet feet!), the path was reasonable to follow through pastures and woodlands but needed navigation as there were very few footpath signs. We got back about 6.30 having started around 10.15 am and covered over 20 km (GPS was on and said 19.7 km but there was no signal in the lower woods at the start).

We went for a beer and a welcomed dinner at the hostel and had the place to ourselves for the rest of the evening. Bex is teaching me about wild foods, their identification etc, so education as well which will come in handy for my trek in the pyrenees starting next month.

On the Saturday the weather predication was worse and so we decided to stay lower and explore the local area. In the event, we found a nice lake in the hills in pleasant woodlands and had our sandwiches in the wet at the head of a lake. We picked a few plants to taste for dinner and I learned about nettle cordage, but I need to practice this more, although I have the basic technique. I liked the Wood Sorrel lemonade that Bex made but she didn't.

Next will be Ben Nevis if we can persuade the others to join ! We marvelled at the group we met in the car park who were doing the three peaks race (Ben Nevis, Scafell and Snowdon in 24 h) starting up Snowdon on the "Miner's track" at about 4 pm.

Just completed a 80 km walk to the coast from Galashiels along the Southern Upland Way over a period of two days.

This is the first view of the North sea from the Penmanshiel Woodland, and as you can see the weather behaved giving clear views all the way, even from the highest points (about 460 m). The highlights were through the ancient woodlands, high moors and the coastal section near the end. The finish of the route is at Cockburnspath where helen met me at the end of the walk. I had one nights camping and woke to a frost and an early start. This is my first walking with a full pack since Fish River canyon and I felt the weight, so that means much more training before the GR11 in June !! However, the distances covered each day were longer than I expect in the pyrenees but the height differences perhaps less.

We're enjoying life here in Gala and the open spaces. We've even managed some gardening and have some Rundu type camping chairs to enjoy our patch of garden.

Now settled in Galashiels in the Scottish Borders. We have rented a flat not far from Emily and Helen on Magdala Terrace, only a stone throw apart so we can easily pop in for coffee. So far things have gone OK with the usual problems of telephone connections and boilers not working, but the weather has been great with temperatures 10 degrees above the seasonal average.

We are on the outskirts of town overlooking Meigle Hill to the south and have already got to know the area and town, sorted the small garden and made the flat a bit personal with our things.

Yesterday, Saturday, we went on a longish walk starting at Newtown St Boswell along the St Cuthbert's way to Bowden and then over th Eildon Hills to Melrose for coffee. We did a different route back around north hill and then through the woods to a lane leading to a track to Newtown. Nice because of the rolling hills, lots of primroses and warm temperatures although the mist on higher ground reduced long range visibility. I'm sure this will be the first of many walks in the area.

We plan to leave about the 15 June, me to trek the rest of the pyrenees from St Gallent to the coast and meet up with Bex on route and Helen at the end for a weeks rest on the Costa Brave before flying home. Meanwhile Helen is going to Poland and other eastern european countries backpacking with Katy for 6 weeks whilst I'm in the mountains. Then it's back to our flat here until about the 10 October and the end of the 6 months rental. We plan to go off then to Asia but have a lot of planning to do before that.

Meanwhile, we have plans to meet up with Bex and Tony and do some walking in Northern Wales and trips to parents to help out.

We did meet up with Margaret, Doug and Dot in Edinburgh for a meal and hopefully will see them over the coming months whilst in Scotland. They are all well and extremely busy with activities.

Here's a picture of the North Hill Eildon on our walk yesterday. Also on route I picked up a copy of "Forever Free" by Joy Adamson from the book shop in Melrose and into that at the moment. Really interesting as I can relate to the places, as we visited her house and the Serengeti, were the cubs were eventually, released on our travels.

Now in Exeter staying at Bex and Tony's flat whilst they are in Equador doing some surfing and hiking. Managing to get a bit fitter with some great walks in the area and exploring city life in Exeter. We have sold the Kombie, so that was sad but I think it has gone to a good home; the buyer looked the part with a pony tail anyway and seemed very keen.

The picture is on Dartmoor, one of the higher "peaks" (547 m !!) but great views all around. These are the standing stones on route, with an ancient grave at one end. Further on there was a stone circle to the west end of Cosdon Beacon.

Didn't really finish off the SA trip report, but so much to write. We ended in Cape Town in a BP in Long Street and did the usual thing, Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch Gardens and Robin Island.

This is the Devon coast near Hern Point rocks and Landram Bay on a mild February day. This was the last section of the south west coast path up to Exeter, so now completed from Bournemouth to Exeter and heading next down the River Exe estuary as the ferry across does not run in the winter.

There is a nice circular route from Budleigh Salterton, along the coast to Sidmouth and then back but going inland before the "High Peak" to Otterton and then southerly down the Otter on the west bank to Budleigh, about 17 km in all. A nice pub in Otterton and also a Mill to look around.

We haven't decided on our next trip yet and lots of research to do before then but will update as our plans take form and meanwhile, lots of things to do here !!